A typical oversight of many beginner aquarists is the use of a heater in their tank, but just like the filters, heaters are a major component of a healthy environment for your fish.
One of the most important aspects of having a thriving tropical aquarium is to keep the water temperature at a good level. Both saltwater and freshwater fish do best in warm water with no drastic temperature variations. Only Goldfish are sturdy enough to handle colder temperatures.
A drop in temperature of only one degree over a twenty four hour period might affect the health of your fish, making them susceptible to diseases that might wipe out your whole tank population. Water temperature affects their immune system, wound healing and digestion. It is especially important to be vigilant of the water temperature during the change of seasons, particularly as winter approaches and temperatures drop. You might not think about it, but when the temperature in your home changes, your fish tank water changes temperature too.
Overheating can also be a problem. As the temperature rises, the oxygen saturation in the water tends to fall. But it's a lot easier to cool down the water than it is to heat it. You can turn off the lighting, float ice packs on the water, run a fan over the water surface or add cooler water on your water changes.
So the real problem is cold water.
The best way to avoid sudden drops in temperature is to have a reliable aqarium water heater in your tank. There are many heaters in the market at various prices. The cheaper ones are more likely to break or malfunction, costing you more money in the long run, and they might not give you an accurate heat setting, which makes maintaining the right temperature in your tank quite difficult.
A mid priced heater will do a very nice job. Their thermostats are reliable and they are able to maintain a constant temperature without having to make many adjustments. Make sure you check your aquarium heater periodically and think about replacing it at least once a year.
Titanium heaters are highly recommended because they're durable and virtually indestructible. Some are designed to automatically shut off when the water level drops or they are exposed to air when plugged in. Most heaters will break when this happens. They are also resistant to corrosion both in salt and fresh water tanks.
Another good investment for your aquarium is a thermometer. You can get thermometers that stick to the outside glass of the tank, making it easier to monitor the temperature at a glance.
The best place for the heater is near the filter, that way the heated water can be distributed throughout the tank avoiding hot and cold spots around the tank. A heater is a very important part of any aquarium ecosystem and keeping the water temperature at a constant level will allow your fish to live happy and disease free for many years.
A minimum of 3-5 watts per gallon is recommended to keep aquarium water temperatures at an optimal level, so always get the right size heater for your tank. If you want to heat 20 gallons of water, you should buy an aquarium water heater of 200-300 watts. If you own a large tank, you should consider using more than one heater. If one of your heaters goes, having multiple heaters in place safeguards your tank from crashing.
So, when planning your set up, take into account purchasing a good and reliable aquarium heater.
aquarium fish
Saturday, October 1, 2011
How to Select a Great Pet Toy
You may add a word to give your dog and your dog will be happy with these toys. However, you can not be happy with what this type of pet toys that do to your home. The stick that can scratch almost everything in your house, not to mention his legs while they play. Instead of lightning in your home, remember, for great pet toys your pet will be just as happy, but not so in the country and causes injury. They are safer for your pets and children. One thing that is a stuffed animal that can be found in the store, some of them look like stuffed animals and squeaky. These are often the favorite pet toy, as some of the reasons. The flexible material allows your dog or cat bite on it without problems. Who answers the need, without breaking in new shoes or bed to bite. Squeak noise is often a surprise, no matter how many times I listened, thinking they have something to chase. It’s a natural instinct to hunt for them, so this toy has the advantage of this and fill the need to bite.
For dogs, some large pet toys are made of rawhide. This may take the form of bones, but are still considered toys. Get one, is comparable to the size. I do not want to be a foot-long leather as toys for pets a dog that is so long, but you can do is a few inches. On the other hand, large dogs can use a property, the six inches high or more. They can bite and chew on this for a long time before they are no longer good. Cats are not found in pet toys leather, but they need to play. They play more when they are puppies, but adult cats need to move. There are several types of toys that make noise with bells and squeaks, allowing them the thrill of the hunt. Some are simply deceived catnip toys to fight and run around the house. Some move on wheels or even a small motor. Other pet toys for cats are good flexible poles, have to hang things from them such as feathers or strings. Cats love it, and move, even if they seem to want to sleep all day.
Any type of pet toys that have the equipment, such as stuffed animals should be treated with a wash occasionally. The dog (or cat) they spit on them to increase the bacteria and dirt to collect. Wash as directed on the label. As a matter of safety, toys for pets, babies and men do not seem in any way, especially if you have children at home or having a baby on the road. Do not call names like Bubby toys or baby as a toy for a newborn baby can be maintained when using one of these words for this baby. pet fish
For dogs, some large pet toys are made of rawhide. This may take the form of bones, but are still considered toys. Get one, is comparable to the size. I do not want to be a foot-long leather as toys for pets a dog that is so long, but you can do is a few inches. On the other hand, large dogs can use a property, the six inches high or more. They can bite and chew on this for a long time before they are no longer good. Cats are not found in pet toys leather, but they need to play. They play more when they are puppies, but adult cats need to move. There are several types of toys that make noise with bells and squeaks, allowing them the thrill of the hunt. Some are simply deceived catnip toys to fight and run around the house. Some move on wheels or even a small motor. Other pet toys for cats are good flexible poles, have to hang things from them such as feathers or strings. Cats love it, and move, even if they seem to want to sleep all day.
Any type of pet toys that have the equipment, such as stuffed animals should be treated with a wash occasionally. The dog (or cat) they spit on them to increase the bacteria and dirt to collect. Wash as directed on the label. As a matter of safety, toys for pets, babies and men do not seem in any way, especially if you have children at home or having a baby on the road. Do not call names like Bubby toys or baby as a toy for a newborn baby can be maintained when using one of these words for this baby. pet fish
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Top Ten Most Popular Cat Breeds
There are forty one recognized cat breeds according to the Cat Fanciers' Association, the world's largest registry of pedigree cats. The different cat breeds have a multitude of varying characteristics but all make great pets in the appropriate home. While this isn't necessarily a list of the best breed of cat, below are the ten most popular cat breeds in America in 2008 according to the Cat Fanciers' Association.
Persian - Persians are a large cat breed. The Persian has a svelte body type and a long coat which requires an extensive amount of pet grooming. Persians' activity level is low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Exotic Shorthair - Exotic Shorthairs are a large cat breed. The Exotic Shorthair has a cobby body type and a short coat which requires an average amount of grooming. Exotic Shorthairs' activity level is low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy to handle and quiet.
Maine Coon - Maine Coons are an x-large cat breed. The Maine Coon has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. Maine Coons' activity level is average relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Siamese - The Siamese is a medium cat breed. It has a svelte body type and a short coat which requires a minimal amount of grooming. The Siamese's activity level is very high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle and very vocal.
Abyssinian - Abyssinians are a small cat breed. The Abyssinian has a slender body type and a short coat which requires a below average amount of pet grooming. Abyssinians' activity level is very high. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle but relatively quiet.
Ragdoll - Ragdolls are a large cat breed. The Ragdoll has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an above average amount of grooming. Ragdolls' activity level is fairly low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Sphynx - The Sphynx is a medium cat breed. It has a moderate body type and a short coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. The Sphynx activity level is high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle but vocal talkers.
American Shorthair - American Shorthairs are a large cat breed. The American Shorthair has a semi-cobby body type and a short coat which requires a below average amount of grooming. American Shorthairs' activity level is fairly low. They are known to be relatively average cats to handle and quiet.
Birman - Birmans are a large cat breed. The Birman has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. Birmans' activity level is fairly low. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Oriental - Orientals are a small cat breed. The Oriental has a svelte body type and a short or medium length coat which requires a minimal or below average amount of grooming. Oriental Shorthairs' activity level is very high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle and very vocal talkers.
pet fish
Persian - Persians are a large cat breed. The Persian has a svelte body type and a long coat which requires an extensive amount of pet grooming. Persians' activity level is low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Exotic Shorthair - Exotic Shorthairs are a large cat breed. The Exotic Shorthair has a cobby body type and a short coat which requires an average amount of grooming. Exotic Shorthairs' activity level is low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy to handle and quiet.
Maine Coon - Maine Coons are an x-large cat breed. The Maine Coon has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. Maine Coons' activity level is average relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Siamese - The Siamese is a medium cat breed. It has a svelte body type and a short coat which requires a minimal amount of grooming. The Siamese's activity level is very high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle and very vocal.
Abyssinian - Abyssinians are a small cat breed. The Abyssinian has a slender body type and a short coat which requires a below average amount of pet grooming. Abyssinians' activity level is very high. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle but relatively quiet.
Ragdoll - Ragdolls are a large cat breed. The Ragdoll has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an above average amount of grooming. Ragdolls' activity level is fairly low relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Sphynx - The Sphynx is a medium cat breed. It has a moderate body type and a short coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. The Sphynx activity level is high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle but vocal talkers.
American Shorthair - American Shorthairs are a large cat breed. The American Shorthair has a semi-cobby body type and a short coat which requires a below average amount of grooming. American Shorthairs' activity level is fairly low. They are known to be relatively average cats to handle and quiet.
Birman - Birmans are a large cat breed. The Birman has a moderate body type and a long coat which requires an average amount of pet grooming. Birmans' activity level is fairly low. They are known to be relatively easy cats to handle and quiet.
Oriental - Orientals are a small cat breed. The Oriental has a svelte body type and a short or medium length coat which requires a minimal or below average amount of grooming. Oriental Shorthairs' activity level is very high relative to other cats. They are known to be relatively difficult cats to handle and very vocal talkers.
pet fish
Aquarium Water Changes
I just realized I never wrote about that very important aspects of successful fish keeping: water changes. This might be obvious for many of us but it is certainly not for everyone. Yesterday, I received two calls from people looking for an answer to their problems: The first tank wasn’t cycled after 6 months (ho yeah!) and the 2nd had a serious (I mean… SERIOUS!!!) nitrate problem. Two problems that could have been avoided with regular water changes.
There’s no getting around it; very aquarium needs a water change once in a while.
How Often?
There is no standard answer to the question of how often water should be changed. Many factors can influence how fast your water quality declines: tank size, number of fish, feeding routine, etc. Some will need weekly water changes while others will do well with a water change every few months.
The best way to know is to test for nitrates. A nitrate test won’t tell you everything but it is an useful indicator of water quality. As a rule of thumb, water should be changed when nitrates reach levels of 30 ppm (this is just a guideline). Some fish requires pristine water so take the time to know your fish (and invertebrates) before to decide what levels can be considered acceptable.
How Much?
Here again, all tanks are different. Keep in mind that a 25% water change will only remove 25% the nitrate, phosphate, etc. Testing for nitrate will tell you lot about how much should be changed. If your nitrate level goes from 10 ppm to 50 ppm within a week, you might want to change more water so you won’t have to change the water too often. If your nitrate levels goes from 10 pm to 15 ppm, smaller water changes should be good.
DON’T CHANGE TOO MUCH WATER! The more water you change, the more you risk to break the nitrogen cycle, make drastic chemistry change, etc. Unless you know what you do, 50% water change should be the maximum.
How To Do Water Changes?
Material needed:
-A siphon (Python type hoses are awesome!)
-2 buckets (if you don’t use a Python hose).
-Water conditioner
Procedure:
1. If you use a Python hose, you may skip this first step. If you don’t use a Python hose, fill a bucket with fresh tap water. Add water conditioner to the water to remove chlorine. Make sure the water at the same temperature to that of your aquarium.
2. Unplug all electrical units: heater, filter, air pump (you can keep the lights).
3. Clean the inside glass using an algae scrubber, scraper, razor blade or sponge. Don’t use sharp objects on an acrylic tank!
4. Siphon the water with your siphon and vacuum the gravel at the same time (see video bellow). Push the siphon straight down into the gravel and then pull straight up to remove all the debris trapped in it. Repeat as you move across the bottom. You might not be able to completely clean the gravel when you do a water change and this is ok. Do a different section of the gravel next time you do a water change. Don’t remove more water than what you have in the other bucket.
5. If you are using a Python hose, water will go directly down the drain. If you are using buckets, fill the other bucket with the water you siphon from the aquarium.
6. Now you can begin refilling. If you are using a Python hose and want to use water straight from the tap, allow it to run for a few minute to reduce the concentration of copper and heavy metals from household plumbing. Use this time to adjust the temperature to that of your aquarium. Once the aquarium if full, use water conditioner directly in the aquarium.
If you are not using a Python hose, gently pour the water bucket (the one with new water) into the aquarium. Refill the tank slowly to not disturb the gravel, plants and fish.
7. Open your filter and look at the filter media (cartridge, activated carbon, sponge, floss, etc…). It is advised to not clean or change filter media the same day you do a water change but at least you’ll know if you need to clean the filter later this week.
8. Dry your hands and plug in all your electrical units again.
9. Wipe down the hood and outside glass of your tank.
10. Record your activity in a maintenance log.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Never use a glass cleaner or any other chemical to clean your tank.
That’s it! Remember that nothing can take the place of routine water changes to keep your water clean and your fish healthy. It seems like a lot of steps, but once you get the hang of it, it doesn’t take very long to complete this procedure. aquarium fish
There’s no getting around it; very aquarium needs a water change once in a while.
How Often?
There is no standard answer to the question of how often water should be changed. Many factors can influence how fast your water quality declines: tank size, number of fish, feeding routine, etc. Some will need weekly water changes while others will do well with a water change every few months.
The best way to know is to test for nitrates. A nitrate test won’t tell you everything but it is an useful indicator of water quality. As a rule of thumb, water should be changed when nitrates reach levels of 30 ppm (this is just a guideline). Some fish requires pristine water so take the time to know your fish (and invertebrates) before to decide what levels can be considered acceptable.
How Much?
Here again, all tanks are different. Keep in mind that a 25% water change will only remove 25% the nitrate, phosphate, etc. Testing for nitrate will tell you lot about how much should be changed. If your nitrate level goes from 10 ppm to 50 ppm within a week, you might want to change more water so you won’t have to change the water too often. If your nitrate levels goes from 10 pm to 15 ppm, smaller water changes should be good.
DON’T CHANGE TOO MUCH WATER! The more water you change, the more you risk to break the nitrogen cycle, make drastic chemistry change, etc. Unless you know what you do, 50% water change should be the maximum.
How To Do Water Changes?
Material needed:
-A siphon (Python type hoses are awesome!)
-2 buckets (if you don’t use a Python hose).
-Water conditioner
Procedure:
1. If you use a Python hose, you may skip this first step. If you don’t use a Python hose, fill a bucket with fresh tap water. Add water conditioner to the water to remove chlorine. Make sure the water at the same temperature to that of your aquarium.
2. Unplug all electrical units: heater, filter, air pump (you can keep the lights).
3. Clean the inside glass using an algae scrubber, scraper, razor blade or sponge. Don’t use sharp objects on an acrylic tank!
4. Siphon the water with your siphon and vacuum the gravel at the same time (see video bellow). Push the siphon straight down into the gravel and then pull straight up to remove all the debris trapped in it. Repeat as you move across the bottom. You might not be able to completely clean the gravel when you do a water change and this is ok. Do a different section of the gravel next time you do a water change. Don’t remove more water than what you have in the other bucket.
5. If you are using a Python hose, water will go directly down the drain. If you are using buckets, fill the other bucket with the water you siphon from the aquarium.
6. Now you can begin refilling. If you are using a Python hose and want to use water straight from the tap, allow it to run for a few minute to reduce the concentration of copper and heavy metals from household plumbing. Use this time to adjust the temperature to that of your aquarium. Once the aquarium if full, use water conditioner directly in the aquarium.
If you are not using a Python hose, gently pour the water bucket (the one with new water) into the aquarium. Refill the tank slowly to not disturb the gravel, plants and fish.
7. Open your filter and look at the filter media (cartridge, activated carbon, sponge, floss, etc…). It is advised to not clean or change filter media the same day you do a water change but at least you’ll know if you need to clean the filter later this week.
8. Dry your hands and plug in all your electrical units again.
9. Wipe down the hood and outside glass of your tank.
10. Record your activity in a maintenance log.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Never use a glass cleaner or any other chemical to clean your tank.
That’s it! Remember that nothing can take the place of routine water changes to keep your water clean and your fish healthy. It seems like a lot of steps, but once you get the hang of it, it doesn’t take very long to complete this procedure. aquarium fish
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Cloudy Aquarium Water
I read many people asking why the water in their aquarium suddenly turned to a white/grayish or green color. Cloudy water is one of the most common aquarium problem and probably one of the easiest to avoid. Today we will have a quick look at the problem, the causes and the solutions.
Why is my aquarium cloudy?
There is unfortunately no single answer, because there is no single cause. However we can usually pinpoint the cause of the problem based on the color and circumstances under which cloudy water appears.
Gravel Residue:
If there are still no fish in the aquarium and the water gets cloudy immediately or within a few hours after filling the aquarium, the problem is most likely due to the aquarium ornament or gravel (in most case) that hasn’t been washed properly. When that happen, your only solution is to drain the tank and rince the gravel until the water runs clear.
Green water:
Green water is caused by a free floating single-celled algae known as Eugleana or simply Green Water. It is one of the most ambulant forms of life and an essential part of the food chain. With the right conditions, these algae can be very prolific. The name aptly describes its appearance. Aquarists often encounter Green Water problems shortly after the aquarium is setup, in tanks with strong lights and/or after too large water changes or the use of chemicals that affects the biofiltration of the tank. To learn more about green water and how to solve it, please read Solving Green Water Problems In Freshwater Aquarium
Bacterial bloom:
The explosive growth of bacteria can sometime make the water turn to a greyish-white color. This problem usually occurs in newly setup tanks and should sort itself out as the tank matures. This should not harm the fish unless the amount of bacteria is enough to consume the oxygen in the tank (I have seen this a few times). When the problem occurs in a new tank and there are no fish in the tank, the easiest way to solve the problem is to wait. The problem will go away as the tank complete the nitrogen cycle. If the tank is new and there are fish in the tank, partial 20% water change, avoiding overfeeding and time will most likely solve the problem.
When a bacteria bloom occurs in an older tank, it is usually due to either overfeeding, insufficient filtration or too many fish in the tank. I have seen many tank where the problem came from all three causes. The first thing to look for is your filtration system. Is it working properly? Have you clean it recently? Many people clean their filter way too much or replace all the filtration media at once. As a result, the tank has to go through the cycling process again. When that happen, time and partial water changes are your best allies.
The second thing thing that could have created this problem in an old tank is doing a large water change the same day you’ve clean the filtration system. Here again, the tank will have to go through the cycling process again. Never clean your filter the same day you do a water change and never change all the water (20% to 50% water change is enough). Again, time and partial water changes will eventually solve the problem.
The third think to look for is your feeding routine. There should be no leftover food on the gravel and the fish should be able to eat it all within a minute (or less).
Finally, the last thing to look for is the amount of fish (or the size of the fish) in the tank. If there are too many fish or if the fish are too big, your filtration system alone might not be enough to handle the waste produced by the fish and keep your nitrogen cycle stable. In this case, your only choices are either to remove some fish or to get a better filter. It is usually best to remove some fish.
Water Clarifiers
There are quite a few chemicals available on the market to help clarify your aquarium water. I don’t recommend relying on them because water clarifiers are only going to hide a problem that should be addressed. After many years in the aquarium maintenance business, I noticed that these chemicals will only work where the water would have cleared itself up in a few hours. Otherwise, these chemicals have little or no effect.
Conclusion
In most case, a cloudy water problem happen when the aquarium’s nitrogen cycle is weak or unstable and when the filter alone is not enough to process all the waste. Most cloudy water could be avoid if:
1) The aquarist let the aquarium go through the cycling period before to add fish.
2) The aquarist avoid overfeeding and overstocking the aquarium.
3) The aquarist follow a regular maintenance routine instead of waiting for months and then, suddenly do a major cleaning of everything and an extra large water change which could easily break the nitrogen cycle. Source: aquarium fish
Why is my aquarium cloudy?
There is unfortunately no single answer, because there is no single cause. However we can usually pinpoint the cause of the problem based on the color and circumstances under which cloudy water appears.
Gravel Residue:
If there are still no fish in the aquarium and the water gets cloudy immediately or within a few hours after filling the aquarium, the problem is most likely due to the aquarium ornament or gravel (in most case) that hasn’t been washed properly. When that happen, your only solution is to drain the tank and rince the gravel until the water runs clear.
Green water:
Green water is caused by a free floating single-celled algae known as Eugleana or simply Green Water. It is one of the most ambulant forms of life and an essential part of the food chain. With the right conditions, these algae can be very prolific. The name aptly describes its appearance. Aquarists often encounter Green Water problems shortly after the aquarium is setup, in tanks with strong lights and/or after too large water changes or the use of chemicals that affects the biofiltration of the tank. To learn more about green water and how to solve it, please read Solving Green Water Problems In Freshwater Aquarium
Bacterial bloom:
The explosive growth of bacteria can sometime make the water turn to a greyish-white color. This problem usually occurs in newly setup tanks and should sort itself out as the tank matures. This should not harm the fish unless the amount of bacteria is enough to consume the oxygen in the tank (I have seen this a few times). When the problem occurs in a new tank and there are no fish in the tank, the easiest way to solve the problem is to wait. The problem will go away as the tank complete the nitrogen cycle. If the tank is new and there are fish in the tank, partial 20% water change, avoiding overfeeding and time will most likely solve the problem.
When a bacteria bloom occurs in an older tank, it is usually due to either overfeeding, insufficient filtration or too many fish in the tank. I have seen many tank where the problem came from all three causes. The first thing to look for is your filtration system. Is it working properly? Have you clean it recently? Many people clean their filter way too much or replace all the filtration media at once. As a result, the tank has to go through the cycling process again. When that happen, time and partial water changes are your best allies.
The second thing thing that could have created this problem in an old tank is doing a large water change the same day you’ve clean the filtration system. Here again, the tank will have to go through the cycling process again. Never clean your filter the same day you do a water change and never change all the water (20% to 50% water change is enough). Again, time and partial water changes will eventually solve the problem.
The third think to look for is your feeding routine. There should be no leftover food on the gravel and the fish should be able to eat it all within a minute (or less).
Finally, the last thing to look for is the amount of fish (or the size of the fish) in the tank. If there are too many fish or if the fish are too big, your filtration system alone might not be enough to handle the waste produced by the fish and keep your nitrogen cycle stable. In this case, your only choices are either to remove some fish or to get a better filter. It is usually best to remove some fish.
Water Clarifiers
There are quite a few chemicals available on the market to help clarify your aquarium water. I don’t recommend relying on them because water clarifiers are only going to hide a problem that should be addressed. After many years in the aquarium maintenance business, I noticed that these chemicals will only work where the water would have cleared itself up in a few hours. Otherwise, these chemicals have little or no effect.
Conclusion
In most case, a cloudy water problem happen when the aquarium’s nitrogen cycle is weak or unstable and when the filter alone is not enough to process all the waste. Most cloudy water could be avoid if:
1) The aquarist let the aquarium go through the cycling period before to add fish.
2) The aquarist avoid overfeeding and overstocking the aquarium.
3) The aquarist follow a regular maintenance routine instead of waiting for months and then, suddenly do a major cleaning of everything and an extra large water change which could easily break the nitrogen cycle. Source: aquarium fish
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Cat Breeds for Cat Lovers
Some cat breeds are low maintenance, while others require frequent brushing. Cat breeds are not as different from each other as different dog breeds but there are still some mighty different types of cats out there. Some cat breeds are people-pets and there are other cat's breeds that prefer to be aloof and independent. Some cat breeds are more prone to spells of silence, but sometimes individual cats of the more vocal breeds are also not very talkative.
Cats Are Unique
Cats have amazing abilities to hear, see and smell. Cats will also turn their ears back when they are playing or to listen to a sound coming from behind them. Felines will also use contact to communicate urgency, from gentle reminders of feeding time to a demanding insistent rub. Cats involved in a conflict may extend their fully bristled tail straight into the air and turn their body sideways to appear larger.
Traits of the Cat Breeds
Some cat breeds require a great deal of brushing and maintenance to keep them happy and healthy and others only shed twice a year. Breeds are more often differentiated by their bodies and faces, and sometimes distinctive physical characteristics such as tailless or folded ears. Remember that no kitten is alike but, much like purebred dogs, different breeds of cats tend to have their own unique traits that may or may not affect your decision. Some cat breeds tend to be better with children or other pets, while other breeds of cat are commonly more aloof and prefer a more solitary existence.
What to Expect In Domestic Cats
Domesticated felines eat fairly little vegetable matter. Domestic cats are usually white, black, yellow, or grey and sometimes have markings of a different color. Domestic mixed-breed cats are generally characterized by long, thin tails, straight ears, and short hair of a variety of colorations. While most domestic felines are not purebreds (only 3% belong to a certain cat breed), there is a wide variety of breeds and most house cats reflect the traits of one or more of the different cat breeds.
Feline Behavior
Knowing what normal cat behaviour is will help in training felines and treating problem cat behaviour. Play-motivated aggressive behaviours are commonly observed in young, active felines less than two years of age. Play incorporates a variety of behaviours, such as exploratory, investigative and predatory, and provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival. Treats can help during playtime, but try to limit their use as positive rewards for behaviour modification. Felines are highly social; a primary difference in social behaviour between cats and dogs (to which they are often compared) is that felines do not have a social survival strategy, or a "pack mentality", however this only means that cats take care of their basic needs on their own. With proper training and reinforcement of social behaviour, poorly socialized cats can become more social over time. Hunting has likewise become central to their behavior patterns, even to their predilection for short bursts of intense exercise punctuating long periods of rest. Scratching behaviour seems enjoyable to the cat, and even declawed cats will go through elaborate scratching routines with every evidence of great satisfaction, despite the total lack of results.
Conclusion
Some of the most popular cat breeds are Persians, Himalayans, Ragdolls, Siamese and Maine Coon. The more aloof cat breeds are: Norwegian Forest, Russian Shorthair and Nebelung. Although it is true that most cat breeds are known to have certain traits, felines are very much individuals and a cat of a breed noted for its independence could be in fact very dependent. With a little research, however, you are sure to determine which cat breeds are suited to your own situation.
Source: pet cat
Cats Are Unique
Cats have amazing abilities to hear, see and smell. Cats will also turn their ears back when they are playing or to listen to a sound coming from behind them. Felines will also use contact to communicate urgency, from gentle reminders of feeding time to a demanding insistent rub. Cats involved in a conflict may extend their fully bristled tail straight into the air and turn their body sideways to appear larger.
Traits of the Cat Breeds
Some cat breeds require a great deal of brushing and maintenance to keep them happy and healthy and others only shed twice a year. Breeds are more often differentiated by their bodies and faces, and sometimes distinctive physical characteristics such as tailless or folded ears. Remember that no kitten is alike but, much like purebred dogs, different breeds of cats tend to have their own unique traits that may or may not affect your decision. Some cat breeds tend to be better with children or other pets, while other breeds of cat are commonly more aloof and prefer a more solitary existence.
What to Expect In Domestic Cats
Domesticated felines eat fairly little vegetable matter. Domestic cats are usually white, black, yellow, or grey and sometimes have markings of a different color. Domestic mixed-breed cats are generally characterized by long, thin tails, straight ears, and short hair of a variety of colorations. While most domestic felines are not purebreds (only 3% belong to a certain cat breed), there is a wide variety of breeds and most house cats reflect the traits of one or more of the different cat breeds.
Feline Behavior
Knowing what normal cat behaviour is will help in training felines and treating problem cat behaviour. Play-motivated aggressive behaviours are commonly observed in young, active felines less than two years of age. Play incorporates a variety of behaviours, such as exploratory, investigative and predatory, and provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival. Treats can help during playtime, but try to limit their use as positive rewards for behaviour modification. Felines are highly social; a primary difference in social behaviour between cats and dogs (to which they are often compared) is that felines do not have a social survival strategy, or a "pack mentality", however this only means that cats take care of their basic needs on their own. With proper training and reinforcement of social behaviour, poorly socialized cats can become more social over time. Hunting has likewise become central to their behavior patterns, even to their predilection for short bursts of intense exercise punctuating long periods of rest. Scratching behaviour seems enjoyable to the cat, and even declawed cats will go through elaborate scratching routines with every evidence of great satisfaction, despite the total lack of results.
Conclusion
Some of the most popular cat breeds are Persians, Himalayans, Ragdolls, Siamese and Maine Coon. The more aloof cat breeds are: Norwegian Forest, Russian Shorthair and Nebelung. Although it is true that most cat breeds are known to have certain traits, felines are very much individuals and a cat of a breed noted for its independence could be in fact very dependent. With a little research, however, you are sure to determine which cat breeds are suited to your own situation.
Source: pet cat
Growing Live Aquarium Plants
Aquatic plants require the same vital elements as soil-based flora. An aquarium plant needs food and sunlight to convert that into energy for use by the plant. They also need the proper balance of trace chemicals in the water which the aquarium plants will absorb into their leaves. Sometimes this balance is achieved during the original planting, but sometimes adjustments will have to be made.
Here, you’ll find some worthwhile tips which will help you grow live aquarium plants.
Using aquatic plants helps your tank maintain a viable ecosystem. They absorb waste products given off by fish, and re-oxygenate the water. Aquarium plants also help to prevent algae growth by using the nutrients that algae would use, and filling the natural formation of photosynthetic flora. Tropical fish, by instinct, hide around and among aquatic plants, so having them in the tank promotes healthy fish as well as a healthy environment for those fish.
All flora requires ample lighting. Aquarium plants need from 8 to 12 hours of sunlight or artificial light every day. Natural sunlight is always best, tank lighting is an alternative. Be sure that the tank is set up in such a way that this is available to aquatic plants, but also provide shadowed recesses for nocturnal fish, such as catfish. Too much light will promote the growth of algae, and is detrimental to the health of fish and live aquarium plants. There must be a scheduled light/dark ratio for tank design, because too much or insufficient lighting creates stress in tank life.
This is the easiest aquatic plant care task. When a tank has a variety of well fed fish. Live aquarium plants take in the nitrogen and carbon from fish waste, and absorb trace elements which dissolve from fish food. Tap water offers some required elements to aquarium plants in addition to providing a relatively stable pH and gH balance. As long as your fish are well fed and plentiful, your live aquarium plants will grow well. Perform a weekly check of the acidity of the water, but a well designed tank needs little additional care.
If algae has begun to grow, either inside the tank, or on the plants, it is a sign that one of the three basic aquatic plant care steps needs attention. First, check the tank’s pH and gH levels. If this is fine, determine whether you have enough aquatic plants for the environment. One or two aquarium plants per cubic foot is a rough guide, but needs vary according to factors such as number of fish, and amount of lighting. Make sure that the aquarium plants are experiencing light/dark periods each day, yet not being stressed by exposure to direct light throughout the whole day. Live aquarium plants create a stable tank environment and an enjoyable and entertaining tank layout.Source: aquarium fish
Here, you’ll find some worthwhile tips which will help you grow live aquarium plants.
Using aquatic plants helps your tank maintain a viable ecosystem. They absorb waste products given off by fish, and re-oxygenate the water. Aquarium plants also help to prevent algae growth by using the nutrients that algae would use, and filling the natural formation of photosynthetic flora. Tropical fish, by instinct, hide around and among aquatic plants, so having them in the tank promotes healthy fish as well as a healthy environment for those fish.
All flora requires ample lighting. Aquarium plants need from 8 to 12 hours of sunlight or artificial light every day. Natural sunlight is always best, tank lighting is an alternative. Be sure that the tank is set up in such a way that this is available to aquatic plants, but also provide shadowed recesses for nocturnal fish, such as catfish. Too much light will promote the growth of algae, and is detrimental to the health of fish and live aquarium plants. There must be a scheduled light/dark ratio for tank design, because too much or insufficient lighting creates stress in tank life.
This is the easiest aquatic plant care task. When a tank has a variety of well fed fish. Live aquarium plants take in the nitrogen and carbon from fish waste, and absorb trace elements which dissolve from fish food. Tap water offers some required elements to aquarium plants in addition to providing a relatively stable pH and gH balance. As long as your fish are well fed and plentiful, your live aquarium plants will grow well. Perform a weekly check of the acidity of the water, but a well designed tank needs little additional care.
If algae has begun to grow, either inside the tank, or on the plants, it is a sign that one of the three basic aquatic plant care steps needs attention. First, check the tank’s pH and gH levels. If this is fine, determine whether you have enough aquatic plants for the environment. One or two aquarium plants per cubic foot is a rough guide, but needs vary according to factors such as number of fish, and amount of lighting. Make sure that the aquarium plants are experiencing light/dark periods each day, yet not being stressed by exposure to direct light throughout the whole day. Live aquarium plants create a stable tank environment and an enjoyable and entertaining tank layout.Source: aquarium fish
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Saltwater Aquariums - Adding Supplements to Yours
Saltwater aquariums require a lot more maintenance compared to freshwater
aquariums, if you want the fish in yours to remain healthy and to thrive. What
one needs to be aware of when it comes to saltwater aquariums, is that over time
certain minerals and nutrients which are essential to the health of fish, can
become depleted. Therefore, there are going to be times when you need to
replenish these through the use of special aquarium supplements.
However, not everybody does need to add supplements to their aquarium; it all depends on how well you maintain yours. For those who chose to keep just saltwater fish in their aquarium such as, Angelfish and Clownfish and regularly change the water, and also carry out essential maintenance procedures, then adding supplements may well not be necessary.
The reason for this being that each time you change the water within any kind of saltwater aquarium, you are in fact replenishing those essential nutrients and minerals that are needed. However, if you have a saltwater aquarium in which there are corals, then you do need to provide supplements that will help to keep the calcium levels within the water high.
How Do You Determine If Saltwater Aquariums Need Supplements
The simplest and most effective way for you to determine if your saltwater aquarium requires additional supplements, is to test the water. There are numerous test kits available which can be purchased either from your local tropical fish store or online, and which quickly identify what is missing from the saltwater in your aquarium, and how much you need to add to bring it up to the appropriate level.
However, when you are adding supplements you need to be careful, otherwise you may find yourself adding too much and fixing an excess of anything can cause you problems. The only way in which an excess of anything in an aquarium can be corrected, is by changing all the water in the tank completely. This unfortunately can cause the plants, fish and coral in your tank considerable amounts of stress.
Types Of Supplements Which One Must Include In Saltwater Aquariums
There is still some debate regarding the matter of adding supplements to saltwater aquariums, as many believe that just by regularly changing the water should be sufficient to replenish those essential elements which have been lost. This certainly seems to be the case where saltwater aquariums only contain fish or fish and live rocks. But for coral reef er aquariums they feel it is essential to add a supplement of calcium to the water. But as well as adding calcium to your aquariums which contain coral reef, you may find that you need to start adding some magnesium and Kalkwasser supplements as well.
The reason why one should actually be adding calcium into coral reef saltwater aquariums is because it helps the corals, algae and any invertebrates you have in the tank to grow. Certainly without adding such a supplement, you may find it extremely difficult to keep the levels at a balance that is beneficial to the life in the tank, and which is naturally found in their wild environment.
Today you have a number of different products available which can be purchased online or through your local aquarium supply company, that provide the correct dosage of calcium for your saltwater aquariums. These come either in tablet or liquid form and although the liquid type is far easier to add to the aquarium water, it is also more expensive. However, you may also find that you need to add some carbonate or bicarbonate to the water to ensure that when you add the calcium into your aquarium, it does not lower the alkalinity in the tank as well. If the level of alkalinity does go below that which is recommended, (2.5 meg per liter of saltwater) you may find you need to add a supplement of Kalkwasser to it.
However, not everybody does need to add supplements to their aquarium; it all depends on how well you maintain yours. For those who chose to keep just saltwater fish in their aquarium such as, Angelfish and Clownfish and regularly change the water, and also carry out essential maintenance procedures, then adding supplements may well not be necessary.
The reason for this being that each time you change the water within any kind of saltwater aquarium, you are in fact replenishing those essential nutrients and minerals that are needed. However, if you have a saltwater aquarium in which there are corals, then you do need to provide supplements that will help to keep the calcium levels within the water high.
How Do You Determine If Saltwater Aquariums Need Supplements
The simplest and most effective way for you to determine if your saltwater aquarium requires additional supplements, is to test the water. There are numerous test kits available which can be purchased either from your local tropical fish store or online, and which quickly identify what is missing from the saltwater in your aquarium, and how much you need to add to bring it up to the appropriate level.
However, when you are adding supplements you need to be careful, otherwise you may find yourself adding too much and fixing an excess of anything can cause you problems. The only way in which an excess of anything in an aquarium can be corrected, is by changing all the water in the tank completely. This unfortunately can cause the plants, fish and coral in your tank considerable amounts of stress.
Types Of Supplements Which One Must Include In Saltwater Aquariums
There is still some debate regarding the matter of adding supplements to saltwater aquariums, as many believe that just by regularly changing the water should be sufficient to replenish those essential elements which have been lost. This certainly seems to be the case where saltwater aquariums only contain fish or fish and live rocks. But for coral reef er aquariums they feel it is essential to add a supplement of calcium to the water. But as well as adding calcium to your aquariums which contain coral reef, you may find that you need to start adding some magnesium and Kalkwasser supplements as well.
The reason why one should actually be adding calcium into coral reef saltwater aquariums is because it helps the corals, algae and any invertebrates you have in the tank to grow. Certainly without adding such a supplement, you may find it extremely difficult to keep the levels at a balance that is beneficial to the life in the tank, and which is naturally found in their wild environment.
Today you have a number of different products available which can be purchased online or through your local aquarium supply company, that provide the correct dosage of calcium for your saltwater aquariums. These come either in tablet or liquid form and although the liquid type is far easier to add to the aquarium water, it is also more expensive. However, you may also find that you need to add some carbonate or bicarbonate to the water to ensure that when you add the calcium into your aquarium, it does not lower the alkalinity in the tank as well. If the level of alkalinity does go below that which is recommended, (2.5 meg per liter of saltwater) you may find you need to add a supplement of Kalkwasser to it.
Dealing With Problems in an Aquarium Saltwater Tank
Saltwater aquarium problems can occur at any time when you own one. Therefore
it is crucial that you have some sort of plan in place which you can use to deal
with any saltwater aquarium emergencies when they occur. By having such a plan
in place will ensure that your salt water fish remain alive.
Often the most likely problems you will have when you keep a saltwater fish tank is that the power may fail, there may be a water leak, the aquarium saltwater heaters may overheat or the aquarium saltwater itself will become polluted. Because you won"t be able to second guess when a problem is going to occur, it is crucial that you keep an eye on the tank regularly.
If a problem does occur then immediately spend time looking at the fish in your saltwater aquarium, also any invertebrates that it contains. Plus if you have any kind of marine life such as live rocks or corals in it, look how they are coping.
Dealing With A Power Failure In Your Aquarium Saltwater Tank
Of all the emergencies that can occur in a tank that contains salt water, is the power failing and unfortunately it is not something that you can easily control. If you do lose power at any time in your home, then it is crucial that you aerate the aquarium saltwater. As long as this situation does not last for more than 24 hours then the aquarium saltwater fish and the other marine life and plants should have no problems.
A good idea would be when purchasing your aquarium saltwater supplies, to also purchase an air pump that is powered by batteries. Having one of these for your saltwater aquarium will help to ensure that you are able to maintain the dissolved oxygen levels within the aquarium saltwater. As for retaining the heat in the aquarium saltwater, a great way of doing this is by wrapping a blanket or sleeping bag around it. However, whilst you have no power, then you should not feed your aquarium saltwater fish, as the filters along with the heaters and lights on the tank will not be working.
How To Cope With The Aquarium Saltwater Overheating
If the heater in your aquarium becomes broken don"t get too worried, although they do not like it, most aquarium saltwater fish can cope with the water temperature going as high as 86 degrees Fahrenheit. However, rather than having to deal with this kind of aquarium saltwater problem, try to avoid it.
To do this it is best rather than using one large heater in your saltwater aquarium, you use two small ones. Plus it offers you the chance to detect any problems in the aquarium saltwater each day when you are carrying out your routine check of the fish tank.
If you do immediately spot a problem with the aquarium saltwater heater, then turn the temperature down on it. Then remove around 20 to 50% of the aquarium saltwater from the tank and place some bags containing ice in the tanks to help bring the temperature down. Also don"t get rid of the water that you have removed from the tank but retain it and allow it to cool down. Once it is back to a more normal level, then this aquarium saltwater can once again be returned to the tank, but must be done slowly.
Often the most likely problems you will have when you keep a saltwater fish tank is that the power may fail, there may be a water leak, the aquarium saltwater heaters may overheat or the aquarium saltwater itself will become polluted. Because you won"t be able to second guess when a problem is going to occur, it is crucial that you keep an eye on the tank regularly.
If a problem does occur then immediately spend time looking at the fish in your saltwater aquarium, also any invertebrates that it contains. Plus if you have any kind of marine life such as live rocks or corals in it, look how they are coping.
Dealing With A Power Failure In Your Aquarium Saltwater Tank
Of all the emergencies that can occur in a tank that contains salt water, is the power failing and unfortunately it is not something that you can easily control. If you do lose power at any time in your home, then it is crucial that you aerate the aquarium saltwater. As long as this situation does not last for more than 24 hours then the aquarium saltwater fish and the other marine life and plants should have no problems.
A good idea would be when purchasing your aquarium saltwater supplies, to also purchase an air pump that is powered by batteries. Having one of these for your saltwater aquarium will help to ensure that you are able to maintain the dissolved oxygen levels within the aquarium saltwater. As for retaining the heat in the aquarium saltwater, a great way of doing this is by wrapping a blanket or sleeping bag around it. However, whilst you have no power, then you should not feed your aquarium saltwater fish, as the filters along with the heaters and lights on the tank will not be working.
How To Cope With The Aquarium Saltwater Overheating
If the heater in your aquarium becomes broken don"t get too worried, although they do not like it, most aquarium saltwater fish can cope with the water temperature going as high as 86 degrees Fahrenheit. However, rather than having to deal with this kind of aquarium saltwater problem, try to avoid it.
To do this it is best rather than using one large heater in your saltwater aquarium, you use two small ones. Plus it offers you the chance to detect any problems in the aquarium saltwater each day when you are carrying out your routine check of the fish tank.
If you do immediately spot a problem with the aquarium saltwater heater, then turn the temperature down on it. Then remove around 20 to 50% of the aquarium saltwater from the tank and place some bags containing ice in the tanks to help bring the temperature down. Also don"t get rid of the water that you have removed from the tank but retain it and allow it to cool down. Once it is back to a more normal level, then this aquarium saltwater can once again be returned to the tank, but must be done slowly.
Coffee Table Aquariums - Why Would You Need One?
Coffee Table Aquariums can do a few great things for your home or office
décor. Like any other sort of aquarium, Coffee Table Aquariums are great for
their stress reducing properties. We all know by now that there is a relaxing
effect to watching an aquarium - perhaps it"s the tranquil feel of water itself,
the peaceful movements of the aquatic plants and fish going about their
business. Whatever the exact reason, they can really help you unwind after a
long day at work. Many people find aquariums so relaxing that they will place
several throughout their home for the tranquility and sheer aesthetic appeal
that aquariums can offer.
Why Coffee Table Aquariums?
If you"re going to get an aquarium, consider this question: Is it better to have an aquarium which fits onto a shelf or onto a small table, or is it preferable to have an aquarium which is actually built into that shelf or table? A Coffee Table Aquarium can become the centrepiece of your living room or den - it will surely bring delight to you as well as any visitors who see it (and one can"t help but notice such a striking and beautiful object). You"ll also find it easy to relax with such a table right in front of you as you come home from a day at work.
Of course there are other home décor options which have some of the calming benefits of a Coffee Table Aquarium, such as small waterfalls, but an aquarium can offer so much more than these. In addition to the tranquil effect of the water, there is the beauty of the plants and fish that these Coffee Table Aquariums can contain. You can choose fish whose colours will match or complement and sort of décor or colour scheme in your home or office - after all, fish come in every imaginable colour, shape and size. Goldfish alone come in yellow (of course), orange, red and even black! Tropical fish are available in any colour at all, sometimes several at once. Swordtails, Guppies and Mollies are all popular choices for inhabiting a Coffee Table Aquarium and are easy to care for freshwater fish. With a little extra attention paid to fish care, you can also have a saltwater Coffee Table Aquarium, which offers you some truly stunning choices in terms of fish.
What will coffee table aquariums do for me?
The great thing about Coffee Table Aquariums is that they offer the owner the tranquillity and beauty of an aquarium while taking up little, if any extra space in the home or office. They are available in any size, shape and colour you can think of; so there is no décor they cannot match - they"ll fit right into your existing scheme while offering comfort and relaxation. Just imagine having a Coffee Table Aquarium in your home - and imagine how much more relaxed you would be if you were to watch your fish instead of television!
Is this the best option for me?
Wouldn"t it be better to have an aquarium built into something which can match your décor and colour scheme rather than having to choose an aquarium based on where you have space to put it? You may be limited to a very small bookshelf aquarium - nice, but hardly the centrepiece of your living room. A Coffee Table Aquarium can be any size you want and fit wherever a coffee table could go in your home. You"ll find it becomes a gathering place, a conversation starter and of course, the most beautiful piece of furniture you"ve ever seen! Why not dress up your home or office with the stunning colours of tropical fish.
For more information on a variety of aquariums please go to Coffee Table Aquariums The author has been in the aquatic business for over twenty years and is the webmaster for unique aquarium designs a website for customers looking for something different in aquarium designs. This article may be freely distributed without modification and provided that the copyright notice and any author information remain intact.
Why Coffee Table Aquariums?
If you"re going to get an aquarium, consider this question: Is it better to have an aquarium which fits onto a shelf or onto a small table, or is it preferable to have an aquarium which is actually built into that shelf or table? A Coffee Table Aquarium can become the centrepiece of your living room or den - it will surely bring delight to you as well as any visitors who see it (and one can"t help but notice such a striking and beautiful object). You"ll also find it easy to relax with such a table right in front of you as you come home from a day at work.
Of course there are other home décor options which have some of the calming benefits of a Coffee Table Aquarium, such as small waterfalls, but an aquarium can offer so much more than these. In addition to the tranquil effect of the water, there is the beauty of the plants and fish that these Coffee Table Aquariums can contain. You can choose fish whose colours will match or complement and sort of décor or colour scheme in your home or office - after all, fish come in every imaginable colour, shape and size. Goldfish alone come in yellow (of course), orange, red and even black! Tropical fish are available in any colour at all, sometimes several at once. Swordtails, Guppies and Mollies are all popular choices for inhabiting a Coffee Table Aquarium and are easy to care for freshwater fish. With a little extra attention paid to fish care, you can also have a saltwater Coffee Table Aquarium, which offers you some truly stunning choices in terms of fish.
What will coffee table aquariums do for me?
The great thing about Coffee Table Aquariums is that they offer the owner the tranquillity and beauty of an aquarium while taking up little, if any extra space in the home or office. They are available in any size, shape and colour you can think of; so there is no décor they cannot match - they"ll fit right into your existing scheme while offering comfort and relaxation. Just imagine having a Coffee Table Aquarium in your home - and imagine how much more relaxed you would be if you were to watch your fish instead of television!
Is this the best option for me?
Wouldn"t it be better to have an aquarium built into something which can match your décor and colour scheme rather than having to choose an aquarium based on where you have space to put it? You may be limited to a very small bookshelf aquarium - nice, but hardly the centrepiece of your living room. A Coffee Table Aquarium can be any size you want and fit wherever a coffee table could go in your home. You"ll find it becomes a gathering place, a conversation starter and of course, the most beautiful piece of furniture you"ve ever seen! Why not dress up your home or office with the stunning colours of tropical fish.
For more information on a variety of aquariums please go to Coffee Table Aquariums The author has been in the aquatic business for over twenty years and is the webmaster for unique aquarium designs a website for customers looking for something different in aquarium designs. This article may be freely distributed without modification and provided that the copyright notice and any author information remain intact.
Heaters Maintain Proper Aquarium Environment
When you decide that you want to have your own tropical fish aquarium, one of
the most important things that you need to control for your fish is the
temperature of the water. Every species of fish has somewhat different water
temperature requirements depending on their natural habitats. Aquarium heaters
are a must to be sure that fish tank water temperatures are stable.
Seasonal fluctuations do effect the water temperature of many natural fish habitats, so many fish species do have a degree of tolerance to fluctuations in water temperatures. But with aquarium-raised tropical fish, it is best to use aquarium heaters to keep the temperatures from fluctuating too much.
Aquarium heaters are simple and basic devices that generate heat so that proper water temperatures can be maintained in fish tanks. An aquarium heater is actually comprised of two components: the heating element and the thermostat. The thermostat gives you the ability to control the temperature of the water in the tropical fish tank.
Just like the thermostat in your home, the thermostat on aquarium heaters can be set to pre-determined settings for temperature. When the water temperature dips below the thermostat setting, the heating element will turn on to bring the water back to the temperature zone desired for your tropical aquarium habitat. As the temperature of the water rises, the thermostat will also disengage the heating element when the water reaches the proper temperature.
The most common of aquarium heaters use a long glass tube, similar to the shape of a cigar, to house the heating element and the thermostat. Typically the heating element is located at the bottom area of the tube while the thermostat is placed above and is closer to the surface of the tropical aquarium water.
Aquarium heaters come in a number of different wattage ranges. The wattage of the aquarium heater will determine how much heat can be generated. Of course, this output capacity effects how much aquarium water will be effectively heated, so you must choose the right heater for the size of your tropical fish tank. There are guidelines printed on the packaging to help you choose the right aquarium heater for your situation. For larger tropical aquariums you may need to utilize two or more aquarium heaters.
It is very important to select high quality aquarium heaters because if they malfunction, the water in your tropical fish tank could either overheat or become too cold. Such drastic changes in the temperature of the aquarium environment can create disastrous consequences for the population of tropical fish in your care.
There are now some high-end aquarium heaters that come with manufacturer guarantees that state they will be functional for up to five years when properly used. However, most heating units come with only a one year guarantee, but if they are produced by reputable manufacturers, they are generally of sufficient quality to use in your tropical fish tank. No matter what type of guarantee the aquarium heater manufacturer offers, it should be understood that the guarantee does not cover any loss of fish in your aquarium if the heater fails, but only guarantees replacement of the heater itself.
Seasonal fluctuations do effect the water temperature of many natural fish habitats, so many fish species do have a degree of tolerance to fluctuations in water temperatures. But with aquarium-raised tropical fish, it is best to use aquarium heaters to keep the temperatures from fluctuating too much.
Aquarium heaters are simple and basic devices that generate heat so that proper water temperatures can be maintained in fish tanks. An aquarium heater is actually comprised of two components: the heating element and the thermostat. The thermostat gives you the ability to control the temperature of the water in the tropical fish tank.
Just like the thermostat in your home, the thermostat on aquarium heaters can be set to pre-determined settings for temperature. When the water temperature dips below the thermostat setting, the heating element will turn on to bring the water back to the temperature zone desired for your tropical aquarium habitat. As the temperature of the water rises, the thermostat will also disengage the heating element when the water reaches the proper temperature.
The most common of aquarium heaters use a long glass tube, similar to the shape of a cigar, to house the heating element and the thermostat. Typically the heating element is located at the bottom area of the tube while the thermostat is placed above and is closer to the surface of the tropical aquarium water.
Aquarium heaters come in a number of different wattage ranges. The wattage of the aquarium heater will determine how much heat can be generated. Of course, this output capacity effects how much aquarium water will be effectively heated, so you must choose the right heater for the size of your tropical fish tank. There are guidelines printed on the packaging to help you choose the right aquarium heater for your situation. For larger tropical aquariums you may need to utilize two or more aquarium heaters.
It is very important to select high quality aquarium heaters because if they malfunction, the water in your tropical fish tank could either overheat or become too cold. Such drastic changes in the temperature of the aquarium environment can create disastrous consequences for the population of tropical fish in your care.
There are now some high-end aquarium heaters that come with manufacturer guarantees that state they will be functional for up to five years when properly used. However, most heating units come with only a one year guarantee, but if they are produced by reputable manufacturers, they are generally of sufficient quality to use in your tropical fish tank. No matter what type of guarantee the aquarium heater manufacturer offers, it should be understood that the guarantee does not cover any loss of fish in your aquarium if the heater fails, but only guarantees replacement of the heater itself.
Beautify Your Tropical Aquarium With Decorations
When it is time to begin setting up your new tropical fish tank and embarking
on your new hobby as a keeper of fish, one of the first areas that many people
think about is the aquarium decoration. Embellishing your new fish aquarium with
decorative touches is not only aesthetically pleasing, but it has some very
practical aspects as well.
Aquarium decoration takes time to properly arrange in the tank because with it, you can create hiding places for the fish as well as natural borders. This makes the aquarium more like a natural environment. Having hiding places is helpful so that the fish are able to have a good place to rest or to simply separate itself from the tropical fish tank community.
Creating natural borders with a unique aquarium decoration can help to control the aggression of some fish in a tropical aquarium. When it is time to introduce new fish into the aquarium, you should rearrange one or more of the decorations in the tank so that old territories are broken up. This will make the older aquarium inhabitants less territorial and give the newly introduced fish a chance to stake claim to their own territories within the tank.
For tropical fish that are primarily cave dwellers, they especially need to have some elements of aquarium decoration that will create places for them to get away from other fish. Tank decorations that create crevices, caves and holes are particularly important for these kinds of fish. Also, fish that are accustomed to being in heavily populated waters also enjoy having aquatic plants to use for hiding and shielding themselves.
Plants are one type of aquarium decoration for your tropical fish tank that play a bigger role in the tropical aquarium than simply adding beauty. Aquarium plants are able to bind carbon and they oxygenate the water, helping to keep the water in better condition for the fish. Plants that are in the aquarium habitat also make use of organic waste, essentially as fertilizer, and this helps to get rid of these potentially harmful components from the aquarium water.
There are many involved in fish keeping who use sensitive aquatic plants as part of their aquarium decoration and which actually act like aquatic "canaries in the mines." If there is a sudden problem with the quality of the water in the tropical fish tank, the plant will die. This will warn the aquarist that there is a problem so that it can be handled before any harm comes to the fish.
Most of the time aquarium decoration items are made of natural materials such as wood, rock or coral. Such natural items, properly arranged, help to make the tropical fish tank look as natural as possible. A tropical aquarium can actually be very much like a small slice of the real habitat for the species of tropical fish you have selected. Some aquarium enthusiasts even go so far as to research the actual habitats of their fish and then try to replicate the look and feel in their tropical fish tank, by adding plants and rocks that come from specific fish habitats.
In addition to the type of aquarium decoration that brings a sense of nature into the tropical fish tank, there is also a huge array of aquarium decorations that would not be found in natural fish habitat settings. For instance, you can add fantasy sea monsters, shipwrecks, buried treasure chests, Egyptian pyramids, statues and temple ruins to bring some interest and variety for the aquarium viewers.
Aquarium decoration takes time to properly arrange in the tank because with it, you can create hiding places for the fish as well as natural borders. This makes the aquarium more like a natural environment. Having hiding places is helpful so that the fish are able to have a good place to rest or to simply separate itself from the tropical fish tank community.
Creating natural borders with a unique aquarium decoration can help to control the aggression of some fish in a tropical aquarium. When it is time to introduce new fish into the aquarium, you should rearrange one or more of the decorations in the tank so that old territories are broken up. This will make the older aquarium inhabitants less territorial and give the newly introduced fish a chance to stake claim to their own territories within the tank.
For tropical fish that are primarily cave dwellers, they especially need to have some elements of aquarium decoration that will create places for them to get away from other fish. Tank decorations that create crevices, caves and holes are particularly important for these kinds of fish. Also, fish that are accustomed to being in heavily populated waters also enjoy having aquatic plants to use for hiding and shielding themselves.
Plants are one type of aquarium decoration for your tropical fish tank that play a bigger role in the tropical aquarium than simply adding beauty. Aquarium plants are able to bind carbon and they oxygenate the water, helping to keep the water in better condition for the fish. Plants that are in the aquarium habitat also make use of organic waste, essentially as fertilizer, and this helps to get rid of these potentially harmful components from the aquarium water.
There are many involved in fish keeping who use sensitive aquatic plants as part of their aquarium decoration and which actually act like aquatic "canaries in the mines." If there is a sudden problem with the quality of the water in the tropical fish tank, the plant will die. This will warn the aquarist that there is a problem so that it can be handled before any harm comes to the fish.
Most of the time aquarium decoration items are made of natural materials such as wood, rock or coral. Such natural items, properly arranged, help to make the tropical fish tank look as natural as possible. A tropical aquarium can actually be very much like a small slice of the real habitat for the species of tropical fish you have selected. Some aquarium enthusiasts even go so far as to research the actual habitats of their fish and then try to replicate the look and feel in their tropical fish tank, by adding plants and rocks that come from specific fish habitats.
In addition to the type of aquarium decoration that brings a sense of nature into the tropical fish tank, there is also a huge array of aquarium decorations that would not be found in natural fish habitat settings. For instance, you can add fantasy sea monsters, shipwrecks, buried treasure chests, Egyptian pyramids, statues and temple ruins to bring some interest and variety for the aquarium viewers.
Starting an Aquarium Maintenance Business
Getting Started...the Necessities
Note: Use this information at your own Risk! Lantz Enterprises Inc ( http://www.walltanks.com ) assumes no responsibility whatsoever.
Business Licenses
The cost of a business license is miniscule. Unless you plan to sell from a retail store, the common price in most areas is approximately $25 per year. In addition, you will also need to obtain a special tax identification number for sales tax. In order to acquire a tax ID you must contact local and state governments to set up an account.
2. Business Essentials
o Business cards
One of the most important steps when starting a new service is the purchase of business cards. Generally, for $75 it is possible to print 5000 cards in multiple colors. Keep in mind that in order to gain a potential customer"s attention a more professional looking card will reflect on your business.
o Letterhead
It is very important to maintain professionalism at all times. One of the ways to do this is through your letterhead. Letterhead is commonly used for sales letters, business correspondence, sales promotions etc. First impressions are crucial to draw in potential customers. When targeting high-end customers they will expect a certain level of professionalism.
Other marketing tools such as brochures and advertisements are essential in getting your product out to your potential clients however they are not always necessary. Normally, depending on the quality of brochure or advertisements you decide on, these can generally range in price from $50- $500. There are many print shops and graphic designers in your area that will take care of this.
o Invoice book
o Appearance
The personal appearance of you and your employees is a very important detail. Formal business attire is not necessary, either a golf shirt or a regular t-shirt with your company name and logo should be worn. T-shirts with simple pocket embroidery will cost between $10 and $12 per shirt. Embroidered golf shirts will cost around $15 to $19 per shirt.
o Insurance
Do not step in the door without some type of liability or damaged property insurance. No matter how careful one can be while servicing an aquarium, accidents will happen. Nothing will end your business endeavor quicker than a lawsuit for damaged property. Normally running around $90 per month with some variation of types of policies that are available, it is truly better to be safe than sorry.
o Liability
It is good business practice to have some type of basic liability insurance. It gives the customer and you a sense of security and adds credibility to your business. A liability disclaimer against fish and livestock deaths as well as aquarium leaks and other collateral damage caused by leaks is included in the "Sales Section".
3. Marketing
The greatest challenge in starting an aquarium maintenance service is finding your base clientele. By allowing a local pet store and friends to pass out your business cards, you essentially turn them into free sales representatives. Positive contact made between a potential customer and others that recommend your service is truly a priceless commodity.
o Newspaper ads
Advertising in a newspaper is deemed ineffective and can become costly. A better approach would be to develop a catalogue or brochure, which you can personally drop off at potential businesses.
o Display your name on the tank
Always display your name and number somewhere on the tank. Always ask your client"s permission first then offer a free month"s service or free fish. Invest in some business cards or stickers that you can leave on or around your tanks.
o Radio / TV Advertising
o Keep it spotless
Most people associate a spotless tank with a healthy environment. Don"t try to argue this point. You will be doing yourself a favor and promoting your business as a clean running service.
4. Customer Service
If finding new clients will be the most challenging aspect of this business, keeping them is a close second. Depending on your local area, business can become very competitive if you are not the only service provider. Keeping your clients happy involves much more than simply cleaning their aquariums. It is important to go "that extra mile" and maintaining a top-notch service. Having flexible service hours and "on call" availability is vital for success. For example, restaurants and other businesses often close at extremely late hours. During their business hours clients will not want their patrons viewing a cleaning service. Offering late or "off hours" times to your clients will keep them happy and put you above your competitors.
On call availability is important. Customers can and will call at the strangest times so it may be important to give them access to a pager number. Not only to schedule appointments but to ask questions or report some type of emergency. From leaking tanks to major fish kills, you will be the first one your customers will call when there is a problem with their aquarium. If you are not available, they will seek out somebody else.
5. Aquarium Location
When examining the best possibilities for a tank location keeping a few factors in mind is crucial. You will want the tank to be in a high traffic area with maximum exposure where it is easy to maintain, has an abundance of natural light and no direct sunlight. More specifically, "Wall Aquariums" can only be installed in inside non-supportive walls.
Ask the client to choose three areas they want to consider and do a checklist. Make sure the final location has access to power and educate the client on why some areas may need further prepping.
6. Working with Contractors
You will need to work closely with a contractor unless you are licensed. Contractors can be found in the Yellow Pages and range from $50 - $70/hour on average. Average installation in an existing wall takes 12 hours, from nothing to fish.
7. Financing Services
If your customer wishes to finance the installation, payment plans are available from Finance Companies. You will be paid 100% of the cost upfront from the service and your customer owes them the balance. These businesses can be found in the Yellow Pages under "Finance Companies".
8. Fish Selection
Most "non" fish hobbyists struggle with fish selection and compatibility. You must educate the client on understanding why some fish can cohabitate and some cannot. Listen to your customer and get a general idea of size and colors they want. Suggesting species will help guide them through fish selection and your professional opinion will be appreciated.
Once you have a good idea of what they want, do some homework. Put together a list of compatible and available fish for the tank. Listing an estimated price per fish will aid the customer.
9. Service Equipment
Gathering all of the necessary equipment needed to run your service is simple and easy. Most of the tools required may be found in your personal equipment that you have acquired through the years.
You will need:
o Bucket
o Aquarium cleaning siphon (battery operated ones work nice)
o Algae scraper (acrylic friendly)
o Fresh & Saltwater test kits
o Filter media
o Fish medication (Melafix, Pemafix, Kich-Ich, Salt)
o Instant Ocean Bio-Spira (instant tank start)
o Fish food
o 100% Cotton towel
In addition to these items, a canister filter that can be taken from site to site would be a good investment. You may also consider purchasing a portable diatom filter for "polishing" your client"s aquarium water. If you do not already have these tools you may be looking at an equipment start up cost of $100 to $200.
10. Aquarium Set-up
o Water
1. Fill the aquarium with pure water. Culligan works great or you may want to invest in a R/O unit (reverse osmosis).
2. Add the appropriate amount of water conditioner to neutralize chlorine.
3. Add a starter fish or two.
4. Test the ammonia and nitrate levels.
5. Anywhere from 2-5 days later pending the results of your tests you can introduce more fish.
o Test the ammonia and nitrate levels every time the tank is serviced so that you will be well aware of any unseen problems.
o In the case of a sudden fish fatality, test the water to see if anything has changed.
o Lighting
Depending on your client"s tank the ideal "photoperiod" (the length of time the aquarium is lit) ranges from two to four hours for saltwater and six to eight hours for freshwater.
If algae is a problem in the tank, a contributing factor is usually too much light. Reducing the artificial lighting time to eight hours, or a bit less may be necessary.
Plugging the light into a timer is essential in creating a controlled environment.
o Temperature
Most aquarium inhabitants prefer water temperatures around 77°F. Typically, if water temperature increases above 80°F, or below 72°F, disaster is imminent. Secure the heater as directed and place a thermometer as far away from the heater as possible in an easily readable area.
o Filtration
Follow the instructions included with your filter for proper system set up. The filter cleans the tank water and provides vital oxygen for the fish so it must be left on 24 hours a day.
There are three types of filtration that you must educate yourself on: mechanical, chemical and biological.
o Mechanical filtration (the removal of pieces of debris from the water) works by passing water through a screen, a thin piece of sponge, or through a floss material.
o Chemical filtration works by passing water through small pieces of carbon. The carbon removes molecules such as ammonia from the water.
o Biological filtration works by certain types of bacteria that live on gravel and in your filter. These bacteria remove ammonia and nitrites from the water (see next section).
Most filters will clean mechanically and biologically if not all three.
11.Understanding the Nitrogen cycle (Fish make Waste - Bacteria get rid of Waste).
o The Biological filter process:
1. Starter fish are introduced to aquarium.
2. Ammonia from the waste starts to build up (toxic).
3. Bacteria start growing that use Ammonia.
4. Ammonia level starts to drop as Nitrite level builds (toxic).
5. Bacteria start growing that use Nitrite.
6. Nitrite level starts to drop as Nitrate level slowly rise (much less toxic).
7. Water is changed and Nitrate level drops.
8. More fish are introduced.
o These bacteria are called Aerobic Bacteria because they need oxygen. The best way to fuel them is to have well-aerated water and plenty of places to grow.
o A new tank isn"t ready for a full load of fish because the biological filter hasn"t built up yet. Slowly adding fish during scheduled visits will aid in water quality.
12. Water Changes
o Cleaning frequency
You will want to do a 20% water change every two weeks. This would be a partial cleaning. If your customer prefers less frequent visits, a 30% water change can be done every three weeks but will cost more. A major water change is only necessary if tank has not been cleaned in a long time.
Clean your aquariums in the following order:
1. Inside aquarium walls
2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
3. Gravel
4. Filter
5. Outside and fixtures
Cleaning the inside walls will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it"s best to clean them first. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Cleaning the inside of the tank will cause the outside to get dirty, so clean the outside last.
Algae pads
Start your cleaning process by giving the acrylic a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an acrylic algae scraper or sponge. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. Buy your algae scrapper at a pet shop instead of the house wares department at a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue will not affect your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium.
For particularly stubborn residue on the sides, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.
Bleach
Once the inside walls are clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents. It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach. Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them.
Get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. Using a bucket that has already been contaminated with other household chemicals could result in the loss of your fish.
Siphon
Clean the gravel next by using an aquarium siphon to vacuum away the debris into a bucket. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. Be sure to vacuum all of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.
Glass and Lime cleaners
Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. Only use cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers and rinse. Do not scrub the acrylic with paper towels or any wood by-product. Use a 100% cotton shirt or towel.
Filter cleaning
After doing a partial cleaning and it has been 4 weeks since you last cleaned the filter, it is time to clean it again. If you did a major water change you may want to wait until the next visit to clean the filter. The reason for this is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media meaning you haven"t completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you could end up with a significant spike in ammonia levels due to the lack of beneficial bacteria. For that reason, it"s wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.
In most cases your filter has media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, and should be replaced if it"s more than four weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal. If you are using two filters, clean one per visit.
Your package prices should include installation, aquascaping, filling the tank with water, fish and cleaning the aquarium for the 1st month. You should offer a 5 - 10% discount with a 6-month service contract as listed on the example "Sales Contract".
o Service charges
Your service charges will be based on competition and target demographic. The charges below are suggested and should be adjusted to your area.
Service programs include:
o Scheduled bi-monthly visits (can be adjusted to meet clients needs)
o Water change (see Water Changes)
o Delivery of equipment, supplies and environment as requested by client
o Free consultation for
o Fish tank makeovers
o Fish stocking
o Equipment replacement/upgrades
o Water quality improvement
o Medical treatment of fish illness
16.Sales Procedure
Set aside specific hours or days a week for sales and stick to the schedule. During this time you will approach businesses and introduce yourself and product line.
If the client wishes to finance a package or service, contact your "Finance Company" (see Finance Company) and you will need to complete work before you receive your payment.
17. Customer"s concerns and frequently asked questions
Concern: I don"t have enough money right now to cover the package prices.
Reply: No problem, the entire amount can be financed and it"s also a tax write off for commercial clients.
Concern: I don"t want you to clean the aquarium in front of my customers.
Reply: No problem, We can come by after business hours for commercial clients.
Question: How do I access the tank for cleaning if it"s in the wall?
Answer: Access will be hidden under a picture-frame style border or an access panel where the top piece swings open.
Question: How will electricity be supplied to an in-wall aquarium?
Answer: An outlet will be mounted inside the wall facing the aquarium.
Question: How will the fish be fed when I"m on vacation?
Answer: An automatic fish feeder will feed the fish for up to two weeks for freshwater fish. We also offer a vacation feeding service.
Question: What if the tank leaks?
Answer: It is extremely rare however it is under manufacturers warranty for one year.
18. Tips
These are a few handy tips and suggestions that may make things a little easier.
1. If you have a computer, make use of it. Most of your customers will have a computer and it makes for a great way to communicate. E-mail is a wonderful way to contact your customers, send them invoices, and allow them to ask questions when you"re not in their area.
2. Teach your clients and their employees about feeding and the filter system. Show them what to do in an emergency and teach them to recognize problems before they get out of hand. Always train at least two employees on feeding methods.
3. Keep your customers up to date on the system and any changes you make. Never allow things to become a surprise. Clients tend to frown on sudden changes made without their consent.
4. Invest in maintenance tools that are easy to use and which do not create a mess. Water changes with a 5-gallon bucket are an accident waiting to happen. Find methods that are user friendly and clean.
5. Control algae. It is your clients" number one concern. A dirty tank delivers the wrong message to your clients" customers. Use fish species, lighting control, feeding programs and good removal tools. Just remember these tanks are acrylic and will scratch if rubbed with an abrasive material. Use 100% cotton towel instead of paper towels. Paper towels are a wood by-product and can scratch acrylic.
6. Great customer service means being patient. Not everyone will have the understanding of aquatics that you do. Things that are simple to you may be more difficult for others to understand. Try to become well versed in basic principles; you will be explaining them over and over. Treat everyone with respect; you may be talking to one of your client"s valued customers.
7. Fish deaths are a part of this business. Learn to be sympathetic but firm. Some fish deaths are unforeseeable, while others are preventable. Work out a fish replacement system and stick to it. Replacing a few fish for free is no big deal, replacing a whole tank is.
8. Try to keep up to date on new products and fish species. Don"t be afraid to try new things, it"s the only way you will advance your skills. Invest in some good books and magazines; they will become useful for reference.
Note: Use this information at your own Risk! Lantz Enterprises Inc ( http://www.walltanks.com ) assumes no responsibility whatsoever.
Business Licenses
The cost of a business license is miniscule. Unless you plan to sell from a retail store, the common price in most areas is approximately $25 per year. In addition, you will also need to obtain a special tax identification number for sales tax. In order to acquire a tax ID you must contact local and state governments to set up an account.
2. Business Essentials
o Business cards
One of the most important steps when starting a new service is the purchase of business cards. Generally, for $75 it is possible to print 5000 cards in multiple colors. Keep in mind that in order to gain a potential customer"s attention a more professional looking card will reflect on your business.
o Letterhead
It is very important to maintain professionalism at all times. One of the ways to do this is through your letterhead. Letterhead is commonly used for sales letters, business correspondence, sales promotions etc. First impressions are crucial to draw in potential customers. When targeting high-end customers they will expect a certain level of professionalism.
Other marketing tools such as brochures and advertisements are essential in getting your product out to your potential clients however they are not always necessary. Normally, depending on the quality of brochure or advertisements you decide on, these can generally range in price from $50- $500. There are many print shops and graphic designers in your area that will take care of this.
o Invoice book
o Appearance
The personal appearance of you and your employees is a very important detail. Formal business attire is not necessary, either a golf shirt or a regular t-shirt with your company name and logo should be worn. T-shirts with simple pocket embroidery will cost between $10 and $12 per shirt. Embroidered golf shirts will cost around $15 to $19 per shirt.
o Insurance
Do not step in the door without some type of liability or damaged property insurance. No matter how careful one can be while servicing an aquarium, accidents will happen. Nothing will end your business endeavor quicker than a lawsuit for damaged property. Normally running around $90 per month with some variation of types of policies that are available, it is truly better to be safe than sorry.
o Liability
It is good business practice to have some type of basic liability insurance. It gives the customer and you a sense of security and adds credibility to your business. A liability disclaimer against fish and livestock deaths as well as aquarium leaks and other collateral damage caused by leaks is included in the "Sales Section".
3. Marketing
The greatest challenge in starting an aquarium maintenance service is finding your base clientele. By allowing a local pet store and friends to pass out your business cards, you essentially turn them into free sales representatives. Positive contact made between a potential customer and others that recommend your service is truly a priceless commodity.
o Newspaper ads
Advertising in a newspaper is deemed ineffective and can become costly. A better approach would be to develop a catalogue or brochure, which you can personally drop off at potential businesses.
o Display your name on the tank
Always display your name and number somewhere on the tank. Always ask your client"s permission first then offer a free month"s service or free fish. Invest in some business cards or stickers that you can leave on or around your tanks.
o Radio / TV Advertising
o Keep it spotless
Most people associate a spotless tank with a healthy environment. Don"t try to argue this point. You will be doing yourself a favor and promoting your business as a clean running service.
4. Customer Service
If finding new clients will be the most challenging aspect of this business, keeping them is a close second. Depending on your local area, business can become very competitive if you are not the only service provider. Keeping your clients happy involves much more than simply cleaning their aquariums. It is important to go "that extra mile" and maintaining a top-notch service. Having flexible service hours and "on call" availability is vital for success. For example, restaurants and other businesses often close at extremely late hours. During their business hours clients will not want their patrons viewing a cleaning service. Offering late or "off hours" times to your clients will keep them happy and put you above your competitors.
On call availability is important. Customers can and will call at the strangest times so it may be important to give them access to a pager number. Not only to schedule appointments but to ask questions or report some type of emergency. From leaking tanks to major fish kills, you will be the first one your customers will call when there is a problem with their aquarium. If you are not available, they will seek out somebody else.
5. Aquarium Location
When examining the best possibilities for a tank location keeping a few factors in mind is crucial. You will want the tank to be in a high traffic area with maximum exposure where it is easy to maintain, has an abundance of natural light and no direct sunlight. More specifically, "Wall Aquariums" can only be installed in inside non-supportive walls.
Ask the client to choose three areas they want to consider and do a checklist. Make sure the final location has access to power and educate the client on why some areas may need further prepping.
6. Working with Contractors
You will need to work closely with a contractor unless you are licensed. Contractors can be found in the Yellow Pages and range from $50 - $70/hour on average. Average installation in an existing wall takes 12 hours, from nothing to fish.
7. Financing Services
If your customer wishes to finance the installation, payment plans are available from Finance Companies. You will be paid 100% of the cost upfront from the service and your customer owes them the balance. These businesses can be found in the Yellow Pages under "Finance Companies".
8. Fish Selection
Most "non" fish hobbyists struggle with fish selection and compatibility. You must educate the client on understanding why some fish can cohabitate and some cannot. Listen to your customer and get a general idea of size and colors they want. Suggesting species will help guide them through fish selection and your professional opinion will be appreciated.
Once you have a good idea of what they want, do some homework. Put together a list of compatible and available fish for the tank. Listing an estimated price per fish will aid the customer.
9. Service Equipment
Gathering all of the necessary equipment needed to run your service is simple and easy. Most of the tools required may be found in your personal equipment that you have acquired through the years.
You will need:
o Bucket
o Aquarium cleaning siphon (battery operated ones work nice)
o Algae scraper (acrylic friendly)
o Fresh & Saltwater test kits
o Filter media
o Fish medication (Melafix, Pemafix, Kich-Ich, Salt)
o Instant Ocean Bio-Spira (instant tank start)
o Fish food
o 100% Cotton towel
In addition to these items, a canister filter that can be taken from site to site would be a good investment. You may also consider purchasing a portable diatom filter for "polishing" your client"s aquarium water. If you do not already have these tools you may be looking at an equipment start up cost of $100 to $200.
10. Aquarium Set-up
o Water
1. Fill the aquarium with pure water. Culligan works great or you may want to invest in a R/O unit (reverse osmosis).
2. Add the appropriate amount of water conditioner to neutralize chlorine.
3. Add a starter fish or two.
4. Test the ammonia and nitrate levels.
5. Anywhere from 2-5 days later pending the results of your tests you can introduce more fish.
o Test the ammonia and nitrate levels every time the tank is serviced so that you will be well aware of any unseen problems.
o In the case of a sudden fish fatality, test the water to see if anything has changed.
o Lighting
Depending on your client"s tank the ideal "photoperiod" (the length of time the aquarium is lit) ranges from two to four hours for saltwater and six to eight hours for freshwater.
If algae is a problem in the tank, a contributing factor is usually too much light. Reducing the artificial lighting time to eight hours, or a bit less may be necessary.
Plugging the light into a timer is essential in creating a controlled environment.
o Temperature
Most aquarium inhabitants prefer water temperatures around 77°F. Typically, if water temperature increases above 80°F, or below 72°F, disaster is imminent. Secure the heater as directed and place a thermometer as far away from the heater as possible in an easily readable area.
o Filtration
Follow the instructions included with your filter for proper system set up. The filter cleans the tank water and provides vital oxygen for the fish so it must be left on 24 hours a day.
There are three types of filtration that you must educate yourself on: mechanical, chemical and biological.
o Mechanical filtration (the removal of pieces of debris from the water) works by passing water through a screen, a thin piece of sponge, or through a floss material.
o Chemical filtration works by passing water through small pieces of carbon. The carbon removes molecules such as ammonia from the water.
o Biological filtration works by certain types of bacteria that live on gravel and in your filter. These bacteria remove ammonia and nitrites from the water (see next section).
Most filters will clean mechanically and biologically if not all three.
11.Understanding the Nitrogen cycle (Fish make Waste - Bacteria get rid of Waste).
o The Biological filter process:
1. Starter fish are introduced to aquarium.
2. Ammonia from the waste starts to build up (toxic).
3. Bacteria start growing that use Ammonia.
4. Ammonia level starts to drop as Nitrite level builds (toxic).
5. Bacteria start growing that use Nitrite.
6. Nitrite level starts to drop as Nitrate level slowly rise (much less toxic).
7. Water is changed and Nitrate level drops.
8. More fish are introduced.
o These bacteria are called Aerobic Bacteria because they need oxygen. The best way to fuel them is to have well-aerated water and plenty of places to grow.
o A new tank isn"t ready for a full load of fish because the biological filter hasn"t built up yet. Slowly adding fish during scheduled visits will aid in water quality.
12. Water Changes
o Cleaning frequency
You will want to do a 20% water change every two weeks. This would be a partial cleaning. If your customer prefers less frequent visits, a 30% water change can be done every three weeks but will cost more. A major water change is only necessary if tank has not been cleaned in a long time.
Clean your aquariums in the following order:
1. Inside aquarium walls
2. Decorations (rocks, plants, etc)
3. Gravel
4. Filter
5. Outside and fixtures
Cleaning the inside walls will cause particles of debris to fall on the plants, decorations, and gravel, so it"s best to clean them first. Removing the plants and decorations will cause debris to fall to the bottom, so hold off cleaning the gravel until the plants and decorations have been taken out. Also, the gravel is much easier to clean once the plants and rocks have been removed. Cleaning the inside of the tank will cause the outside to get dirty, so clean the outside last.
Algae pads
Start your cleaning process by giving the acrylic a good cleaning on the inside. All you need for that is an acrylic algae scraper or sponge. There are a wide variety of algae scrapers on the market, from long handled scrubbers to magnetic scrubbers. Buy your algae scrapper at a pet shop instead of the house wares department at a regular store. Although the pads may look the same, they may have a soap or chemical residue in them from the manufacturing process. A residue will not affect your kitchen sink, but it can leave a lethal film in your aquarium.
For particularly stubborn residue on the sides, use a special plastic razor blade, as standard razors will scratch acrylic.
Bleach
Once the inside walls are clean, remove any rocks, artificial plants, or decorations that have significant algae growth, or are noticeably dirty. Do not clean them with soap or detergents. It is very difficult to completely remove soap, and even the smallest trace can be lethal to fish. Usually a good scrub with an algae scraper will remove the algae and dirt from rocks and plants. For particularly stubborn cleaning problems, prepare a 10% bleach solution (1 part household bleach to 9 parts water) and soak the items for 15 minutes. Scrub any remaining residue off, rinse well in running water, and let air dry to eliminate any residual bleach. Leave the rocks, decorations and plants out of the tank while you vacuum the gravel. That way none of the debris stirred up from the gravel will settle on them.
Get a new bucket and designate it for aquarium use only. Using a bucket that has already been contaminated with other household chemicals could result in the loss of your fish.
Siphon
Clean the gravel next by using an aquarium siphon to vacuum away the debris into a bucket. There are several types of siphons available, all of which work essentially the same. Be sure to vacuum all of the gravel thoroughly so that all debris is removed.
Glass and Lime cleaners
Once the inside of the aquarium is cleaned, the hood, light, tank top, and outside glass can be cleaned. Only use cleaners designated as aquarium safe. Regular glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Standard lime cleaners are even more toxic. Use aquarium safe cleansers and rinse. Do not scrub the acrylic with paper towels or any wood by-product. Use a 100% cotton shirt or towel.
Filter cleaning
After doing a partial cleaning and it has been 4 weeks since you last cleaned the filter, it is time to clean it again. If you did a major water change you may want to wait until the next visit to clean the filter. The reason for this is not visible to the naked eye. The major cleaning you just performed has disturbed the bacterial colonies on the plants, rocks, and in the gravel. Fortunately a significant number of the beneficial bacteria reside within the filter media meaning you haven"t completely upset the eco-system. However if you changed the filter at the same time, you could end up with a significant spike in ammonia levels due to the lack of beneficial bacteria. For that reason, it"s wise to give the tank a rest before removing the filter and cleaning it.
In most cases your filter has media containing carbon, ammonia absorbers, or ion-exchange resins, and should be replaced if it"s more than four weeks old. After a couple of weeks the absorbing qualities in the media have been exhausted, and there are enough bacterial colonies elsewhere to offset its removal. If you are using two filters, clean one per visit.
Your package prices should include installation, aquascaping, filling the tank with water, fish and cleaning the aquarium for the 1st month. You should offer a 5 - 10% discount with a 6-month service contract as listed on the example "Sales Contract".
o Service charges
Your service charges will be based on competition and target demographic. The charges below are suggested and should be adjusted to your area.
Service programs include:
o Scheduled bi-monthly visits (can be adjusted to meet clients needs)
o Water change (see Water Changes)
o Delivery of equipment, supplies and environment as requested by client
o Free consultation for
o Fish tank makeovers
o Fish stocking
o Equipment replacement/upgrades
o Water quality improvement
o Medical treatment of fish illness
16.Sales Procedure
Set aside specific hours or days a week for sales and stick to the schedule. During this time you will approach businesses and introduce yourself and product line.
If the client wishes to finance a package or service, contact your "Finance Company" (see Finance Company) and you will need to complete work before you receive your payment.
17. Customer"s concerns and frequently asked questions
Concern: I don"t have enough money right now to cover the package prices.
Reply: No problem, the entire amount can be financed and it"s also a tax write off for commercial clients.
Concern: I don"t want you to clean the aquarium in front of my customers.
Reply: No problem, We can come by after business hours for commercial clients.
Question: How do I access the tank for cleaning if it"s in the wall?
Answer: Access will be hidden under a picture-frame style border or an access panel where the top piece swings open.
Question: How will electricity be supplied to an in-wall aquarium?
Answer: An outlet will be mounted inside the wall facing the aquarium.
Question: How will the fish be fed when I"m on vacation?
Answer: An automatic fish feeder will feed the fish for up to two weeks for freshwater fish. We also offer a vacation feeding service.
Question: What if the tank leaks?
Answer: It is extremely rare however it is under manufacturers warranty for one year.
18. Tips
These are a few handy tips and suggestions that may make things a little easier.
1. If you have a computer, make use of it. Most of your customers will have a computer and it makes for a great way to communicate. E-mail is a wonderful way to contact your customers, send them invoices, and allow them to ask questions when you"re not in their area.
2. Teach your clients and their employees about feeding and the filter system. Show them what to do in an emergency and teach them to recognize problems before they get out of hand. Always train at least two employees on feeding methods.
3. Keep your customers up to date on the system and any changes you make. Never allow things to become a surprise. Clients tend to frown on sudden changes made without their consent.
4. Invest in maintenance tools that are easy to use and which do not create a mess. Water changes with a 5-gallon bucket are an accident waiting to happen. Find methods that are user friendly and clean.
5. Control algae. It is your clients" number one concern. A dirty tank delivers the wrong message to your clients" customers. Use fish species, lighting control, feeding programs and good removal tools. Just remember these tanks are acrylic and will scratch if rubbed with an abrasive material. Use 100% cotton towel instead of paper towels. Paper towels are a wood by-product and can scratch acrylic.
6. Great customer service means being patient. Not everyone will have the understanding of aquatics that you do. Things that are simple to you may be more difficult for others to understand. Try to become well versed in basic principles; you will be explaining them over and over. Treat everyone with respect; you may be talking to one of your client"s valued customers.
7. Fish deaths are a part of this business. Learn to be sympathetic but firm. Some fish deaths are unforeseeable, while others are preventable. Work out a fish replacement system and stick to it. Replacing a few fish for free is no big deal, replacing a whole tank is.
8. Try to keep up to date on new products and fish species. Don"t be afraid to try new things, it"s the only way you will advance your skills. Invest in some good books and magazines; they will become useful for reference.
Discover The Importance of Proper Aquarium Lighting
Aquarium lighting is often the last item a person is thinking about when
buying an aquarium. The lighting of an aquarium, however, is very important.
There are 4 different kinds of aquarium setups that may require different kinds of aquarium lighting:
Freshwater - fish only. Freshwater - fish and plants. Salt water - fish only. Saltwater - fish and corals.
The most light-sensitive aquarium set up is the aquarium with saltwater fish and corals.
Corals are categorized as animals, not plants, and therefore they are feeding from the light. So the proper aquarium lighting is very crucial and will make the difference between growing beautiful and lustrous corals and having them die in your reef tank.
Light is very important for all forms of life. It is no different for all the different forms of life in your aquarium. Corals and fresh water plants are especially in need of proper light conditions.
When growing corals, it is of great importance to change light bulbs regularly. To have proper aquarium lighting, it is recommended to change light bulbs about every 8 months.
It may at times not be so apparent to you, but you need to keep in mind that corals are highly sensitive to light.
Today there is an extensive variety of aquarium lighting available. So if you are owning a reef tank for example, you do have to be especially careful to provide the right lighting to have success in growing corals. Corals are strongly photosynthesizing which means they are using light as energy and if there is not enough energy (light) provided, corals will not grow and can even die.
Aquarium lighting is provided by short and long wavelength, blue and yellow light.
You need a smaller amount of short wavelength light (actinic) and a larger amount of long wave light (yellow), depending on the type of aquarium life you are trying to promote.
The amount of light that you need does not necessarily depend on how big your aquarium is, but on how many corals you have got to feed daily.
When you use aquarium lighting you want to mimic the natural light. This means you need to have at least 8 to 10 hours of light provided to keep your aquarium with fish and plants healthy.
A timer will help you here to keep up with the light automatically. With the aid of a timer you can enjoy your aquarium without having to keep up with the on and off switching of your aquarium light.
But you do need to keep up with the changing out of light bulbs about every 8 months and you need to do it regularly.
A freshwater aquarium also needs proper aquarium lighting. For most of the freshwater tanks, fluorescent light bulbs are common. The strength of your fluorescent light bulb will depend again on how many freshwater plants you want to grow. Here, too, it may depend on how many plants you are growing in your tank.
Just like there are corals that need more light than others, there are also fresh water plants that may require more light than others. Your aquarium lighting may often be the reason why you are not able to grow healthy plants. So to keep your aquarium looking great and have beautiful growths of plants or corals make aquarium lighting an important priority!
Proper aquarium lighting is also important for all your fish and any other aquatic animal, and if you don"t know the type of light they need, check with your pet store or aquarium store to find out what is optimal for them.
Aeration and filter material is another important subject that you need to learn about if you want to have success with your aquarium and if you want to keep your tropical and salt water fish healthy. You have invited them into your home now it is your responsibility to keep them healthy and happy.
There are 4 different kinds of aquarium setups that may require different kinds of aquarium lighting:
Freshwater - fish only. Freshwater - fish and plants. Salt water - fish only. Saltwater - fish and corals.
The most light-sensitive aquarium set up is the aquarium with saltwater fish and corals.
Corals are categorized as animals, not plants, and therefore they are feeding from the light. So the proper aquarium lighting is very crucial and will make the difference between growing beautiful and lustrous corals and having them die in your reef tank.
Light is very important for all forms of life. It is no different for all the different forms of life in your aquarium. Corals and fresh water plants are especially in need of proper light conditions.
When growing corals, it is of great importance to change light bulbs regularly. To have proper aquarium lighting, it is recommended to change light bulbs about every 8 months.
It may at times not be so apparent to you, but you need to keep in mind that corals are highly sensitive to light.
Today there is an extensive variety of aquarium lighting available. So if you are owning a reef tank for example, you do have to be especially careful to provide the right lighting to have success in growing corals. Corals are strongly photosynthesizing which means they are using light as energy and if there is not enough energy (light) provided, corals will not grow and can even die.
Aquarium lighting is provided by short and long wavelength, blue and yellow light.
You need a smaller amount of short wavelength light (actinic) and a larger amount of long wave light (yellow), depending on the type of aquarium life you are trying to promote.
The amount of light that you need does not necessarily depend on how big your aquarium is, but on how many corals you have got to feed daily.
When you use aquarium lighting you want to mimic the natural light. This means you need to have at least 8 to 10 hours of light provided to keep your aquarium with fish and plants healthy.
A timer will help you here to keep up with the light automatically. With the aid of a timer you can enjoy your aquarium without having to keep up with the on and off switching of your aquarium light.
But you do need to keep up with the changing out of light bulbs about every 8 months and you need to do it regularly.
A freshwater aquarium also needs proper aquarium lighting. For most of the freshwater tanks, fluorescent light bulbs are common. The strength of your fluorescent light bulb will depend again on how many freshwater plants you want to grow. Here, too, it may depend on how many plants you are growing in your tank.
Just like there are corals that need more light than others, there are also fresh water plants that may require more light than others. Your aquarium lighting may often be the reason why you are not able to grow healthy plants. So to keep your aquarium looking great and have beautiful growths of plants or corals make aquarium lighting an important priority!
Proper aquarium lighting is also important for all your fish and any other aquatic animal, and if you don"t know the type of light they need, check with your pet store or aquarium store to find out what is optimal for them.
Aeration and filter material is another important subject that you need to learn about if you want to have success with your aquarium and if you want to keep your tropical and salt water fish healthy. You have invited them into your home now it is your responsibility to keep them healthy and happy.
Saltwater Aquariums - A Beginners Guide
Saltwater aquariums are certainly more difficult to maintain than fresh water
aquariums. The ecology of saltwater aquariums is different and needs careful as
well as knowledgeable handling.
Saltwater aquariums can house a wide range of fishes and mammals in comparison to fresh water aquariums. In a salt water aquarium it is possible for you to keep some of the flamboyantly colored reef fishes. A saltwater aquarium can also house live coral, anemones, crustaceans or jellyfish. Some advanced aquarists even keep octopuses and squids. This variety of sea life gives the aquarium an exotic feel. Perhaps this is the reason why saltwater aquariums are so popular.
Starting a Saltwater Aquarium
Before starting a saltwater aquarium it would be a good idea if you researched the ecosystem of saltwater fishes, their habitat, food, water temperature etc. A saltwater aquarium can be highly gratifying and the extra time used to research the exact requirements for a saltwater tank is worth its weight in gold.
To start a saltwater aquarium you will require a Fish tank, Filtration System, Substrates, Heater or Thermometer, power head, protein skimmer, water pump, and air pump.
The Basic Types
There are three basic forms of saltwater aquariums: Fish Only, Fish with Live Rock and Reef System.
Fish only - This is a good choice for beginners. This type of tank is for keeping fish only as the name suggests and is the least expensive type.
Fish with Live Rock- This is basically the same as fish only, but has live rocks. It is called "live rock" because of the creatures and organisms living on the inside and on the surface of the rock. Buying good rock, can be expensive though.
Reef System- Reef tanks are usually set up by very experienced hobbyists because these tanks require excellent water conditions, extremely high lighting levels, water supplements, reverse osmosis and deionized water, and excellent filtration. In short it costs the earth and then some.
Saltwater Aquarium Do"s & Don"t"s
You should ideally choose an aquarium that is 55 gallons (200 liters) or larger. It will be harder to maintain suitable water quality and balance in a smaller tank.
After deciding on size you must decide on the material of the aquarium. There are 2 choices glass and acrylic. Both these materials are commonly used for saltwater aquariums and have their pros and cons.
Location is a very important aspect of saltwater aquariums. Too much sunlight causes algae problems and too little is equally harmful. The temperature should be as constant as possible.
Never place anything in the aquarium that is not saltwater proof. Make sure that decorations are saltwater proof or they may poison your aquarium.
Filtration is an important part of any aquarium, salt or otherwise. There are three basic types of filterations- mechanical filtration, chemical filtration and biological filtration.
Cleaning your aquarium with detergent or soap will pollute the water and destroy the fragile ecosystem of your saltwater aquarium. It"s best if you use bleach instead. Add one capful of pure bleach to 10 gallons of water and wipe the aquarium with, clean carefully with fresh water afterwards.
You should never use ordinary salt in your aquarium. Its best to buy aquarium salt from a fish store and mix it with water according to instruction.
A hydrometer is very crucial for the saltwater aquarium. It is of utmost importance for you to maintain a balance between the salt and water levels. Water keeps evaporating, whereas the salt level remains the same. Evaporated water should never be replaced by salt water. A hydrometer will make it possible for you to check the exact salinity of the water.
Popular Saltwater Fishes
Clown fish, Angelfish, Blue lined triggerfish, Comical blenny, Flame fish and Damsels are a few examples of popular saltwater fishes that can be kept in aquariums.
Rohan Mistry is the owner of a day spa in Mumbai. He earlier looked after accommodation reservation for spa break in Mauritius. Being a keen observer of upcoming trends in the spa industry, he is particularly upbeat about Shanti Ananda spa packages in Mauritius
Saltwater aquariums can house a wide range of fishes and mammals in comparison to fresh water aquariums. In a salt water aquarium it is possible for you to keep some of the flamboyantly colored reef fishes. A saltwater aquarium can also house live coral, anemones, crustaceans or jellyfish. Some advanced aquarists even keep octopuses and squids. This variety of sea life gives the aquarium an exotic feel. Perhaps this is the reason why saltwater aquariums are so popular.
Starting a Saltwater Aquarium
Before starting a saltwater aquarium it would be a good idea if you researched the ecosystem of saltwater fishes, their habitat, food, water temperature etc. A saltwater aquarium can be highly gratifying and the extra time used to research the exact requirements for a saltwater tank is worth its weight in gold.
To start a saltwater aquarium you will require a Fish tank, Filtration System, Substrates, Heater or Thermometer, power head, protein skimmer, water pump, and air pump.
The Basic Types
There are three basic forms of saltwater aquariums: Fish Only, Fish with Live Rock and Reef System.
Fish only - This is a good choice for beginners. This type of tank is for keeping fish only as the name suggests and is the least expensive type.
Fish with Live Rock- This is basically the same as fish only, but has live rocks. It is called "live rock" because of the creatures and organisms living on the inside and on the surface of the rock. Buying good rock, can be expensive though.
Reef System- Reef tanks are usually set up by very experienced hobbyists because these tanks require excellent water conditions, extremely high lighting levels, water supplements, reverse osmosis and deionized water, and excellent filtration. In short it costs the earth and then some.
Saltwater Aquarium Do"s & Don"t"s
You should ideally choose an aquarium that is 55 gallons (200 liters) or larger. It will be harder to maintain suitable water quality and balance in a smaller tank.
After deciding on size you must decide on the material of the aquarium. There are 2 choices glass and acrylic. Both these materials are commonly used for saltwater aquariums and have their pros and cons.
Location is a very important aspect of saltwater aquariums. Too much sunlight causes algae problems and too little is equally harmful. The temperature should be as constant as possible.
Never place anything in the aquarium that is not saltwater proof. Make sure that decorations are saltwater proof or they may poison your aquarium.
Filtration is an important part of any aquarium, salt or otherwise. There are three basic types of filterations- mechanical filtration, chemical filtration and biological filtration.
Cleaning your aquarium with detergent or soap will pollute the water and destroy the fragile ecosystem of your saltwater aquarium. It"s best if you use bleach instead. Add one capful of pure bleach to 10 gallons of water and wipe the aquarium with, clean carefully with fresh water afterwards.
You should never use ordinary salt in your aquarium. Its best to buy aquarium salt from a fish store and mix it with water according to instruction.
A hydrometer is very crucial for the saltwater aquarium. It is of utmost importance for you to maintain a balance between the salt and water levels. Water keeps evaporating, whereas the salt level remains the same. Evaporated water should never be replaced by salt water. A hydrometer will make it possible for you to check the exact salinity of the water.
Popular Saltwater Fishes
Clown fish, Angelfish, Blue lined triggerfish, Comical blenny, Flame fish and Damsels are a few examples of popular saltwater fishes that can be kept in aquariums.
Rohan Mistry is the owner of a day spa in Mumbai. He earlier looked after accommodation reservation for spa break in Mauritius. Being a keen observer of upcoming trends in the spa industry, he is particularly upbeat about Shanti Ananda spa packages in Mauritius
Aquarium Test Kits; What They Are Used For and Their Importance for Freshwater and Saltwater
It is always best to have as many different test kits as you can afford (as
they apply to either freshwater or saltwater
I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate test I do not need (high range and low range ph) and leave out ones I need such as kH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox
Here is a list of FRESHWATER Test Kits, what they are for and in order of importance:
[1] Ammonia Test Kit; Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should be kept at or near 0. Ammonia test kits cannot discern between highly toxic ammonia (NH4) and only slightly toxic ammonium (NH3). Products such as Prime , Ammolock, and Amquel will convert NH4 to NH3, so your toxic ammonia level will not test accurately after using one of these products. Ammonium (NH3) will convert to NH4 at higher pH levels, which why high ammonia levels as per test are much more toxic at higher pH.
[2] kH & GH Test Kit; you will notice I placed this above a pH test Kit, this due to the fact that a poor kH will make keeping a stable pH nearly impossible. Also Calcium (as tested in GH) is more important to fish health than many aquarists give credit.
*You want to maintain a KH & GH of around 60 ppm (around 2-3 dKH & dGH) for Discus, Rams, Cardinals, and other Amazon fish.
*A KH & GH of 80 -100 for most tropical fish including Gouramis, Bettas, Angelfish, ECT.
*A KH & GH of 100-200 for Goldfish, mollies, Platties, Guppies, ECT.
*A KH & GH of over 200 for Rift Lakes African Cichlids and Brackish fish such as Monos and Scats.
For more information about Calcium and Magnesium, see my article: "Calcium, KH, and Magnesium in aquariums; How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important".
[3] pH High Range OR Low Range Test Kit; you should only need one or the other based on the type of aquarium you keep.
Does not stress over being exact about pH, as too of many aquarists go WAY overboard here! For example Discus generally do best around 6.5, however I know breeders of Discus using water with a pH well over 7.0
I recommend a High Range Test Kit for Goldfish and livebearers which should have a targeted pH of about 7.5-7.8. Rift Lake African cichlids should have a pH of over 8.0
I recommend a Low Range Test Kit for general community freshwater fish (6.8- 7.4) or Amazon River fish (under 6.8)
[4] Nitrate Test Kit; this test is important to know when to change your water (along with KH), as well as how well your general long term tank health is going. Nitrates will also show you how well your plants are consuming nitrogenous nutrients, and if you are vacuuming the aquarium properly such as removing all the mulm. Some filters such as Under Gravel in particular, and Wet Dry and Canister filters can become nitrate factories if not taken care of properly.
For most freshwater fish a nitrate level under 40 ppm is correct or above 15 ppm for planted aquariums.
[4] Nitrite Test Kit; you will notice I put it last, not because it is not important, only that if budget is a concern or time for testing is a factor, this parameter mirrors ammonia often within hours or days. Nitrite should be at or near 0.
[5] Phosphate Test Kit; generally only necessary in planted aquariums where large amounts of "ferts" (fertilizer) are added or if you have uncontrollable algae growth. This test kit is often more important for ponds where rain water can wash debris with high phosphate content into the pond.
Your aquarium (or pond) should have phosphate levels as close to 0 as possible.
[6] Redox Meter; generally this water parameter will take of itself provided you perform proper aquarium husbandry including, regular water changes with properly ionized water, you maintain a GH and KH level of at least 50 ppm (I find 80 ppm better). This said, this is a good parameter to check if you are having problems with Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae) or if you are having unexplained problems and every other test is correct (providing you do not have an unknown disease). I recommend every aquarist be at least familiar with the Redox Potential, here is an in depth article about aquarium Redox: "The Redox Potential in Aquariums (& Ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health".
You can use Methylene Blue according to standard dosage to your aquarium water (remove the water for this test), and it stays a brilliant blue, you probably have a positive Redox. If the color dissipates at all (even the slightest) you probably have a reducing number. This test in no way replaces the accuracy of Redox meter, but it is a simple way to get a handle on your aquariums Redox health.
Your aquarium Redox should be around -300 mV.
SALTWATER;
The list remains similar and I will bypass descriptions that are in common with freshwater test kits.
[1] Ammonia Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW
[2] KH Test Kit; you do not need a GH Test Kit for saltwater. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH)
[3] PH High Range Test Kit; your pH should be between 8.2 - 8.4
[4] Hydrometer; this instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in simple terms the amount of salts). There are two types; the floating glass hydrometers which are more fragile, but also more accurate or the simple needle hydrometer that you fill with water. It is important with both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (then rinse thoroughly) to prevent hard water buildup which will then cause inaccurate readings.
[4] Nitrate Test Kit; Nitrates are best under 40 for marine fish aquariums and under 20 (even less if possible) for reef aquariums
[5] Calcium Test Kit; this takes the place of the GH Test Kit in freshwater.
Calcium is important to ALL marine life (this includes freshwater too as it is often sadly overlooked), however it is absolutely essential for proper coral growth in marine aquariums. Bio-availability is also essential, Sea Chem Reef Calcium Polygluconate is probably one of the best, most bio-available calcium supplements available for marine aquariums.
Your marine Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm
[6] Nitrite Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW
[7] Magnesium Test Kit; Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and the corals. Maintaining a correct magnesium concentration is very important, and is indirectly responsible for fast coral and calcareous algae growth by virtue of making the maintenance of correct calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and by the use of excessive Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds Calcium Carbonate in solution, if levels are low useable calcium levels will also drop. Poor choices of Marine Buffers can further exasperate this problem, this why I STRONGLY recommend Sea Chem Marine Buffer for adjusting alkalinity in marine aquariums (and EVEN freshwater aquariums) as this product has Magnesium, Calcium, and sodium bicarbonate in the proper ratios.
Magnesium levels in marine aquariums should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.
[8] Redox Meter; as in freshwater, I recommend -300 mV, except Redox is more important in marine aquariums.
[9] Phosphate Test Kit; as in freshwater this should near 0. High phosphate levels in marine aquariums can play havoc with the health and growth of live coral (Phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals)
I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate test I do not need (high range and low range ph) and leave out ones I need such as kH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox
Here is a list of FRESHWATER Test Kits, what they are for and in order of importance:
[1] Ammonia Test Kit; Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should be kept at or near 0. Ammonia test kits cannot discern between highly toxic ammonia (NH4) and only slightly toxic ammonium (NH3). Products such as Prime , Ammolock, and Amquel will convert NH4 to NH3, so your toxic ammonia level will not test accurately after using one of these products. Ammonium (NH3) will convert to NH4 at higher pH levels, which why high ammonia levels as per test are much more toxic at higher pH.
[2] kH & GH Test Kit; you will notice I placed this above a pH test Kit, this due to the fact that a poor kH will make keeping a stable pH nearly impossible. Also Calcium (as tested in GH) is more important to fish health than many aquarists give credit.
*You want to maintain a KH & GH of around 60 ppm (around 2-3 dKH & dGH) for Discus, Rams, Cardinals, and other Amazon fish.
*A KH & GH of 80 -100 for most tropical fish including Gouramis, Bettas, Angelfish, ECT.
*A KH & GH of 100-200 for Goldfish, mollies, Platties, Guppies, ECT.
*A KH & GH of over 200 for Rift Lakes African Cichlids and Brackish fish such as Monos and Scats.
For more information about Calcium and Magnesium, see my article: "Calcium, KH, and Magnesium in aquariums; How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important".
[3] pH High Range OR Low Range Test Kit; you should only need one or the other based on the type of aquarium you keep.
Does not stress over being exact about pH, as too of many aquarists go WAY overboard here! For example Discus generally do best around 6.5, however I know breeders of Discus using water with a pH well over 7.0
I recommend a High Range Test Kit for Goldfish and livebearers which should have a targeted pH of about 7.5-7.8. Rift Lake African cichlids should have a pH of over 8.0
I recommend a Low Range Test Kit for general community freshwater fish (6.8- 7.4) or Amazon River fish (under 6.8)
[4] Nitrate Test Kit; this test is important to know when to change your water (along with KH), as well as how well your general long term tank health is going. Nitrates will also show you how well your plants are consuming nitrogenous nutrients, and if you are vacuuming the aquarium properly such as removing all the mulm. Some filters such as Under Gravel in particular, and Wet Dry and Canister filters can become nitrate factories if not taken care of properly.
For most freshwater fish a nitrate level under 40 ppm is correct or above 15 ppm for planted aquariums.
[4] Nitrite Test Kit; you will notice I put it last, not because it is not important, only that if budget is a concern or time for testing is a factor, this parameter mirrors ammonia often within hours or days. Nitrite should be at or near 0.
[5] Phosphate Test Kit; generally only necessary in planted aquariums where large amounts of "ferts" (fertilizer) are added or if you have uncontrollable algae growth. This test kit is often more important for ponds where rain water can wash debris with high phosphate content into the pond.
Your aquarium (or pond) should have phosphate levels as close to 0 as possible.
[6] Redox Meter; generally this water parameter will take of itself provided you perform proper aquarium husbandry including, regular water changes with properly ionized water, you maintain a GH and KH level of at least 50 ppm (I find 80 ppm better). This said, this is a good parameter to check if you are having problems with Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae) or if you are having unexplained problems and every other test is correct (providing you do not have an unknown disease). I recommend every aquarist be at least familiar with the Redox Potential, here is an in depth article about aquarium Redox: "The Redox Potential in Aquariums (& Ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health".
You can use Methylene Blue according to standard dosage to your aquarium water (remove the water for this test), and it stays a brilliant blue, you probably have a positive Redox. If the color dissipates at all (even the slightest) you probably have a reducing number. This test in no way replaces the accuracy of Redox meter, but it is a simple way to get a handle on your aquariums Redox health.
Your aquarium Redox should be around -300 mV.
SALTWATER;
The list remains similar and I will bypass descriptions that are in common with freshwater test kits.
[1] Ammonia Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW
[2] KH Test Kit; you do not need a GH Test Kit for saltwater. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH)
[3] PH High Range Test Kit; your pH should be between 8.2 - 8.4
[4] Hydrometer; this instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in simple terms the amount of salts). There are two types; the floating glass hydrometers which are more fragile, but also more accurate or the simple needle hydrometer that you fill with water. It is important with both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (then rinse thoroughly) to prevent hard water buildup which will then cause inaccurate readings.
[4] Nitrate Test Kit; Nitrates are best under 40 for marine fish aquariums and under 20 (even less if possible) for reef aquariums
[5] Calcium Test Kit; this takes the place of the GH Test Kit in freshwater.
Calcium is important to ALL marine life (this includes freshwater too as it is often sadly overlooked), however it is absolutely essential for proper coral growth in marine aquariums. Bio-availability is also essential, Sea Chem Reef Calcium Polygluconate is probably one of the best, most bio-available calcium supplements available for marine aquariums.
Your marine Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm
[6] Nitrite Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW
[7] Magnesium Test Kit; Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and the corals. Maintaining a correct magnesium concentration is very important, and is indirectly responsible for fast coral and calcareous algae growth by virtue of making the maintenance of correct calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and by the use of excessive Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds Calcium Carbonate in solution, if levels are low useable calcium levels will also drop. Poor choices of Marine Buffers can further exasperate this problem, this why I STRONGLY recommend Sea Chem Marine Buffer for adjusting alkalinity in marine aquariums (and EVEN freshwater aquariums) as this product has Magnesium, Calcium, and sodium bicarbonate in the proper ratios.
Magnesium levels in marine aquariums should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.
[8] Redox Meter; as in freshwater, I recommend -300 mV, except Redox is more important in marine aquariums.
[9] Phosphate Test Kit; as in freshwater this should near 0. High phosphate levels in marine aquariums can play havoc with the health and growth of live coral (Phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals)
Aquarium Attention Notes
1, We choose a healthy fish, plus all the new fish quarantine, quarantine aquarium to achieve required standards of the main aquarium to avoid any means to fish by the stimulation.
2, We do not expect all of the fish is the same way, remember that different types of fish feeding habits, similar and different types of fish between the cross-platform, the size of the final size of mature fish.
3, In the aquarium in any metal not being used.
4, We must learn to identification of signs of water problems: sparkling, cloudy, discolored and odorous water is deterioration of the signal.
5, We should not forget that time partial water changes, time to add trace elements. Gradually replace all of the aquarium water, sucked the aquarium 20% to 25% of the water and slowly added to new water, the time just stopped for half an hour, remember to switch off the power or other power filters, when the water level low when it may lead to “stranded.”
6, Time to add fresh water evaporation loss compensation.
7, The glass cover to keep clean, not a transparent glass cover to prevent glare completely into the water.
8, We check the filter flow rate is relatively large, frequently clean the external filter media and activated carbon, preferably 10 days time. With the aquarium water clean, so as not to kill any bacteria group.
When cleaning the filter, external filter hose placed on the plug to reduce the risk of overflow.
Cleaned outside power filter, make sure the filter pump connection hoses and well, it is very easy to find time to pay attention to the aquarium and filter.
Bio-filter the water slowed down, indicating that the bottom sediments and more. In this case, should be very slightly loose fouling the bottom, with a special “gravel washing device”, it sucked the deposition of waste, remove the bottom itself different.
Another way to keep a clean bottom is removed every six months as part of that is 10%, do not remove too much part of, otherwise, the filter pad will be poor nitrifying bacteria.
9, We add a few drops of dyed water, checking the effectiveness of activated carbon, for example, methylene blue drip filter inlet, outlet if the water appears, the active surface is still valid. If blue, activity needs to be replaced.
10, We check the air stone in the air-driven bio-filters, air gas to enhance the process of rock salt and calcium by blocking may cause to slow down. If this happens, gas can rock out, clean or replace.
11, On time and remove residue of the protein skimmer collection room.
12, Over a period of time, algae covered the whole aquarium, with non-metallic glass in front of the eraser to remove the algae (such as nylon and plastic eraser is very effective), in a small aquarium algae, excessive algal debris can be used to to feed the fish. No need to aquarium
Other algae on the glass box is also removed. Because the fish from above it grazed, excessive growth of algae will be affected by thinning brush.
13, Fish with drug treatment, to follow medication instructions. Remember, drug therapy will kill the copper box in most invertebrates. This is why the fish and invertebrates together the reasons for farming more difficult. If necessary, remove the sick fish, sick fish and separate the main aquarium. Do not mix drugs. Disposed of all of the equipment were disinfected. Do not use the same nets.
Source: Aquarium fish
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